Beyond thrilled is perhaps the most accurate way to describe how The Man and I were feeling when we were invited along to the Champagne Evening at AA-Rosetted Restaurant 1650 at Ye Olde Bell Hotel and Spa. Having dined at this stunning location previously, we were heartily looking forward to a stellar feast, knowing that Executive Chef Richard Allen and Head of Banqueting Nigel Shaw are masters of their craft. We weren’t familiar with the Maison de Champagne, Telmont, though, so were really looking forward to sampling their fine fizz.
Having got ready in our beautiful executive accommodation, The Grove (read our accommodation review), we mosied over to the main building and, once we’d confirmed our reservation, sat on one of the plush raised chairs and sipped aperitifs (Gin and Tonic). Table by table, the guests were escorted through to Restaurant 1650 (named after the year it’s widely believed the venue opened as a Coaching Inn) where General Manager Kate Firth greeted everyone with an ‘Olde Bell Spritz’, a jolly nice combination of Belle de Brillet and Apricot and White Grape Soda that kicked proceedings off in marvellous fashion.
As we sipped the Spritzer, Ollie Robertson from Remy Cointreau, the majority owners of Telmont Champagne, introduced himself and the brand and explained how each Champagne had been chosen to pair with the food course. All lined up, the serving team filed in with platters of Oysters over ice, carefully placing them down and then retreating. The first glass of fizz was the Telmont Reserve Brut, a zippily quaffable tipple whose minerality perfectly complements the chilled, fresh Oysters ozonic tang and their Champagne Vinegar and Shallot Mignonette. Elegantly clean and crisp, this Champagne left our palates refreshed with every sip; even better, selected Waitrose stores stock this, so if you see it as you’re out-and-about, pick some up to try for yourselves.
Whilst the serving team were clearing away our crockery and glasses, Ollie continued our journey through the company’s history and ethos. Founded in 1911, Maison Telmont remains a relatively small Champagne producer, releasing approximately 400,000 bottles per year; whilst this seems a huge amount, when you compare it to the fact that Moet et Chandon produce 500,000,000 (5 million) bottles per annum, you realise that it isn’t that much! Remy Cointreau jumped on-board with Maison de Telmont in 2020, and Leonardo di Caprio holds a minority share in the company, influenced by Telmont’s eco-credentials and commitment to becoming fully organic by 2030.
Pan-seared Scallops with Pea Purée and Crispy Pancetta, Caramelised Cauliflower, and Citrus Cream was our second course, exquisitely presented and paired with Telmont Reserve de la Terre Organic. Each Scallop was voluptuously meaty and, over the years, I don’t think I’ve eaten more sizeable ones! Irresistibly soft and fragrant, the seafood had subtly golden outers, and their delicate taste was partnered beautifully by salty, ultra-crisp shards of Pancetta and a rather cheeky Citrus Cream that waltzed skilfully over the tongue. Adding a touch of sweeter tones were a silky smooth, verdant Pea Purée and the subtly smoky sweetness of Caramelised Cauliflower. Chef had certainly packed an awful lot of taste and texture into this dish, testament to his and his teams’ skill, and Ollie had come up with a delightful choice of liquid partner. The finish on this organic Champagne was longer than its predecessor, like a lovers first, ardent kiss, and I actually preferred this to the Reserve Brut.
Our main course was Butter-poached Chicken Breast with Dauphinoise Potatoes, Tenderstem, and a Tarragon and Wild Mushroom Sauce, partnered by the very attractive Telmont Reserve Rosé. Underneath a cover of golden, crisped skin was impossibly juicy, moist Chicken Breast whose flavour captivated the taste buds with its charm. Chef had formed the Dauphinoise into dizzyingly tall towers, allowing diners to appreciate the numerous visible layers easily, and the Garlic and Cream-pimped Potatoes still had a hint of firmness to them when bitten into. Utter brilliance! Similarly, the Tenderstem was perfectly al-dente with a sweetly nutty edge to its flavour that seamlessly blended with the other elements of this dish. The stand-out of this dish, without doubt, was the beguiling Tarragon and Wild Mushroom sauce; not only did this lift the food, it seemed to accentuate the Strawberry hints in the Rosé Champagne and had a wonderfully silky texture in the mouth.
Speaking of the Reserve Rosé Champagne, it may be of interest to keen Oenophiles or Vintners that this particular offering has zero dosage; nor does it contain Pinot Noir grapes: just Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay types. This means that there are less tannins in this particular Champagne, making it ideal for poultry, especially when there is a cream-based sauce involved, as it cuts through the richness.
For the final, dessert course, we were treated to a splendid Lemon Tart, served with Vanilla Crème Fraiche and Raspberry Textures. Ollie had chosen Telmont’s Blanc de Noirs Champagne to pair with this tart, primarily because this particular Champagne (of which only 2,500 bottles per year are produced) has ‘age’ to it, both in the barrel and in the bottle. Bottle aging softens the profile significantly on the palate, assuaging the sharp acidity and mellowing its bright fruitiness into something softer and more complex, and stamping honeyed, biscuity, buttery notes into the Champagne. The final product is something that worked surprisingly well with the lively Citrus Tart and confident Raspberry elements of the pudding, and it was a little left-field, given that Champagne is far from the standard choice for partnering dessert. I like a man with confidence and faith in his product: bravo, Ollie!
Rounding off our meal, we chose to savour black coffees, before retiring to the bar for a post-prandial Bailey’s and G&T (my- and His Nibs’- choice respectively). Throughout the evening, the team had worked tirelessly to ensure that every guest had wanted for nothing; timely serving and clearing of dishes was done seamlessly and without any intrusion or fuss. Glasses were replenished without note, and new ones refilled almost invisibly. Hot Wings very happily given again to Restaurant 1650 at Ye Olde Bell Hotel and Spa in Barnby Moor.
To book a table, call 01777 705121 or visit www.yeoldebell-hotel.co.uk and click on the ‘what’s on’ tab for information on individual events and package prices. If you prefer, you can book online as well.
