Another week was fast coming to an end, and we all know that Sunday = Roast Dinner! Winner, Winner! It literally was a double win, too; not only was a scrummy roast on the agenda, it was in one of our favourite places: Brooks Deli and Wine Bar, Mickleover. The Man and I had originally visited this fab venue to try their Tapas one evening, and snagged a parking spot outside, but we knew the chances of that on a Sunday were slim, so we parked in a nearby car park and walked back.
Brooks like to do things their way and, when it’s this good, I can’t blame them. To that end, the traditional plated Sunday roast isn’t on the menu, though that doesn’t mean a reduced choice at all; oh no! Neither does it mean a fusty, boring setting. Every Sunday, there will be live music of some sort at Brooks Deli and Wine Bar, and on this particular day it was a DJ spinning ACTUAL vinyl - get in. The atmosphere was spot on for those young, young-at-heart, and everyone in between, including families with children. I was instantly taken back to my [roaring] 20’s, with some absolutely classic Ibiza bangers being dropped – ‘Café Del Mar’ anyone; or a spot of ‘Beach Ball’ by Nalin and Kane?
Mia came over to bring some table water and our drinks (Malbec for me, NZ Sauv Blanc for His Nibs), so our mood was kept more than buoyant.As you’d expect from a Wine Bar, there is a fantastic choice of wines, as well as draught- and bottled- beers and lagers, Cocktails, Mocktails, softs and, [sign of the times, I guess] Protein Shakes.
Looking over the menu, I settled into the stunning surroundings of Brooks – I love the combo of rich Forest Green and Gold that the team have chosen as their colour palate. Patterned flooring adds a pop of visual interest without being jarring, and the artwork on the walls is also eye-catching but discreet. The aesthetic is chilled refinement, and though it’s ultra-modern, Brooks doesn’t lack warmth; confident in its offering, the team aren’t try-hards in any way.
Never did I ever think I would be unfaithful to my beloved [plated] Sunday Roast, and yet here I was, completely eschewing it, and eagerly ordering the Slow-cooked Lamb Yorkshire Wrap (£16.50), served with Crispy Roasties on the side and a jug of rich gravy for dipping! How easily tempted am I? His Nibs so very nearly joined me, but swerved at the last moment, opting for the Braised Blade of Beef (from the Large Plates section of the menu, £16.50). This meal is served with Creamy Mash, Orange-infused Carrots, Crispy Onions and Beef Jus. Neither of us could quite relinquish all ties with the iconic British Roast, though, so ordered small plates of Honey-Roasted Carrots and Parsnips with Whipped Goats Cheese and Dukkah (£7), and Cauliflower and Smoked Pancetta Croquettes with Mature Cheddar Sauce and Parmesan (£10.50).
To be fair, you could actually make an alternate Roast dinner from the small plates section: Crispy Pork Belly Bites or Braised Beef Bon Bons as the main character, partnered with Maple and Thyme Chipolatas, Roasties and Gravy, Sage and Onion Stuffing Balls, and the aforementioned sides that we chose. One dish that was proving popular with the Mickleover ‘set’ was the Brooks Sliders (£15.50), and it did look veeeeeery tasty, I have to say.
It wasn’t long before Mia was placing the dishes down in front of us, and one of her colleagues asked if we’d like any extra sauces – Mint for me, please, and Horseradish for His Nibs. With everything sorted, it was time to get stuck in. I don’t think Chef could’ve got anymore Lamb in the flattened Yorkshire Pudding ‘tortilla’ if his life depended on it! My fears of there being less meat in a wrap were totally unfounded; there was certainly as much meat in its Yorkie wrap as there would’ve been sliced on a plate. Flavour-wise, the Lamb was blooming wonderful: sweet, intense and earthy, this was filling my tummy up nicely. I loved the rich batter taste of the Yorkshire Wrap, and the stuffing was subtly herby, bringing another layer of flavour to the dish. Predictably, the unctuous, meat-juice gravy was soon getting the wrap dunked into it, leaving me licking my lips in happiness. Proper pan-bottom roasties were smashing: nicely crisped, caramelised outers, and pillow-soft inners. This had been a real bobby dazzler, and I kicked myself at having resisted its charms for so long!
The Man and I had decided to play nicely, and go half-and-half, and he was also surprised at just how much he’d liked the Yorkshire Wrap. Equally, both of us fully rated the Braised Blade of Beef that had been placed before The Man. The knife literally winked and blew a kiss at the Beef and it parted into uber-tender shreds that were whisper soft, with a depth of flavour that belied their appearance. Bathed in Orange, the whole, trimmed Carrot had a pleasing hint of fruit at its periphery and a beautiful sweetness in the mouth. A sizeable amount of Mash was glass-smooth and skilfully seasoned so that it bounced on the tongue – no boring spuds at Brooks, that’s for sure!
Now, I don’t know about you, but I never knew I needed Honey-Roasted Carrots and Parsnips, Goats Cheese and Dukkah in my life! Having had them at Brooks’, I can say with total certainty that everybody needs them in their life. Glorious on their own, the roasted veggies were delicious but, oh my god, the addition of tangy, softening Goats Cheese was a flippin’ genius move…and then there was the slinky, toasted nuttiness and spicy warmth of Dukkah to appreciate. Yummy, yummy, in my tummy.
I love the contrast between the crisp, crunchy outer of a Croquette and its comfortingly soft filling, and the Cauliflower and Smoked Pancetta morsel at Brooks did not disappoint at all. Paired with a tantalisingly rich, Mature Cheddar sauce, this was beyond amazing and utterly addictive! These Croquettes really were the epitome of relatively simple ingredients being transformed into something [gastro] catwalk-worthy.
Our tummies were more than full but Mia waltzed over with a mischievous grin on her face and said “Up for pudding?”. Challenge accepted. Part of me wanted to try the Pistachio Tiramisu, but I’d already gone off-piste with my main course and hadn’t quite got the chutzpah to do it a second time in such a short period. Rome wasn’t built in a day, y’know, before you come out swinging for me! Straight out of the gate, His Nibs had spotted the Sticky Toffee Pudding Bites with Sticky Toffee Mousse and Vanilla Ice Cream (£8), so that was him sorted, and I plumped for the Chocolate Tart with Marmalade Glaze and Candied Orange (£8).
No word of a lie, the pastry that formed the fluted-edge, individual tart case here was possibly the best I’ve ever had! Buttery and light, it had the perfect texture to easily cut into without bursting into a squillion crumbs. Instantly melting in my mouths’ warmth, the impossibly good pastry was partnered with a rich, Chocolate Ganache that also melted in my mouth, lazing over my tongue as it released all of its character. Nothing should be allowed to be this decadent; it was filthily good! The sticky Marmalade glaze wasn’t overly sweetened, so you got a clear citrus ping on the palate, aided nicely with some chewy pieces of Candied Orange.
The Man Bird had chosen a magnificent dessert, he really had. Small, bite-size chunks of Sticky Toffee Pudding provided the perfect end to his meal; pleasingly dense in texture, each piece was surprisingly light in the mouth, and wasn’t at all heavy or over-powering in its richness. Equally superb was the Mousse-like ‘sauce’ that cocooned the pudding bites; complementary in its flavour, the result was harmonious, yet complex too. Nothing beats the versatility of a good quality Vanilla Ice Cream, and the Brooks team serve up a real pearler: rounded and mellow in flavour, yet with an indulgent richness, this Ice Cream provided the perfect finishing flourish to this pudding.
Nothing had been too much trouble for the team whilst we’d been dining at Brooks Deli and Wine Bar in Mickleover. Empty plates and bowels were swiftly cleared away, and check-backs had been done at appropriated intervals. Each interaction was accompanied by a smile and few words of conversation, and it wasn’t just us that were treated like this; every diner was met with great service – however young they were.
Serving up great food and drinks, with some seriously good sounds; yup, Sundays aren’t sedate at Brooks! Hot Wings happily given to this great Mickleover venue again. To book a table call 01332 982009, or visit www.brooksderby.com, pick ‘Mickleover’ and then hit the ‘book a table’ tab. Brooks Deli and Wine Bar in Mickleover is closed Monday and Tuesday, open Weds-Thurs 9am-11pm, Fri-Sat 9am-Midnight, and Sunday 9am-11pm.
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