Exploring always awakens the appetite, and so it was that The Man Bird and I headed to the village of Craster (home of amazing smoked kippers) to have lunch at The Jolly Fisherman, courtesy of our collaborative partner, Experience North-East England.
Speaking of kippers, local firm L. Robson & Sons had their smokehouse (across from The Jolly) at full bore, the fragrant smoke billowing from the roof vents.
The car park is located a short walk away, so we sauntered back into the venue which, despite it being the very tail-end of tourist season, was still absolutely heaving inside and out. The lovely beer garden is dog-friendly, as is the bar area, but furries aren’t permitted in the upper-level restaurant. My advice would be to always book and reserve a table if you want to dine at The Jolly Fisherman, given how busy it was!
Our table by the window gave us amazing views out to sea, over the village harbour, and further afield to the ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle – more of that later. The Jolly team offer a superb selection of wines and beers, and His Nibs and I both plumped for a cheeky glass of Picpoul Rosé. As well as the regular menu, there is also a specials board to tempt you, but I had got my beady eyes firmly on The Jolly Fish Board (£47 for two people, £25 for one); The Man opted for The Jolly Ploughman’s (£19), so you don’t have to like fish and/or seafood to enjoy a tasty meal at this fantastic pub.
In the brief wait for our meals, I took in the relaxed decor of the dining space a little better, finding peace in its neutral palette. Coastal and maritime paraphernalia are scattered around, including rope-work, wood, and natural, heavy fabric. Lighting and music are at pleasant levels: jarring isn’t in The Jolly Fisherman’s remit.
Both our lunches were presented on large, black slate boards and were visually stunning; feasting with our eyes, we were already sated, but our taste buds were straining to get in on the action, so we tucked in without any more ado. His Nibs was chowing down on an impossibly hearty slab of sausage roll, grinning in delight at its depth of flavour. Matching its potency was a chunky piece of pork pie and a thick wedge of chunky ham hock terrine – protein quota for the day already probably met! Triangles of Cheddar cheese were paired with homemade coleslaw and a pleasingly textural piccalilli that had a superb punch of mustard to it. Crisp slices of red apple, grapes, celery, and a dressed mixed salad also contributed to The Man’s five-a-day target. This was a beautifully tasty lunch that managed to be more than filling, but stayed light on the tummy: perfect, seeing as we still had a full itinerary ahead of us!
If, like me, you’re always down for a smorgasbord of locally-sourced fish and seafood, the smoked and cured selection here will be just your thing. I couldn’t help but clap with glee as I spotted the pot of mussels in a cream, white wine, shallot and garlic sauce...and my joy only increased as I took that first mouthful – glorious!! The slices of bread served with my board were soon getting dunked in to mop every smidge up, as well as providing the perfect vessel on which to pop the brown and white crab meat blend that Jolly’s is renowned for.
The crab concoction was delightfully rich and perfumed on the palate, and equalling its quality was the luscious prawn and crayfish Marie Rose morsel. Both of these had been presented in oyster shell halves, so I think it fair to say that Chef at The Jolly Fisherman loves to thrill his diners with his serving style.
My mouth loved the feel of the thick slice of salmon; luxuriantly silky and oily, it glided over my tongue and released its perfumed notes slowly. Contrasting with the salmon’s sweetness was the pickled, cured herring, served in a loose roll-mop; this bounced and zipped over my palate as I slowly chewed its firm texture. Most of this platter had been fairly soft in texture, so it was great to bite into the crunchy batter of the calamari rings.
A punchy garlic aioli and fresh lemon wedge partnered the batter brilliantly, cutting through its richness easily. I honestly couldn’t fault a single thing with the food at The Jolly Fisherman...other than maybe it made us both want to stay longer rather than get on with our day!!
Getting on meant a quick dash along the coast to see the headland ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle, so we set off with our energy levels having been boosted nicely. Construction of this fortress began in 1313 on the orders of Thomas, Earl of Lancaster, cousin (and enemy) of King Edward II, though it is now owned by the National Trust and managed by English Heritage. John of Gaunt strengthened its defences in the 1380s, but the castle was badly damaged during the Wars of the Roses and subsequently fell into decay, with stone later removed for use in other buildings. Nowadays it provides a haven for wild birds; in spring and summer, seabirds nest on the sheer-drop cliffs, and ground-nesting birds (such as skylarks) brood their eggs in the grassland. Even though it is ruined, Dunstanburgh Castle remains proud against the skyline, basking in the admiration of the many who still visit – and look upon it.
The Jolly Fisherman is located at Haven Hill, Craster, Northumberland, NE66 3TR. To book, call 01665 576461 or visit thejollyfishermancraster.co.uk.
We were invited to dine here as part of our press trip organised by Experience North East England, supported by NewcastleGateshead, Visit Northumberland and Visit County Durham.
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