There is much to recommend the picturesque village of Warkworth, the most obvious being its medieval castle which, though ruined, is remarkably well preserved. It really is a stunning spot, nestled in an acute bend of the River Coquet that makes it seem like the waters are looping around the buildings.
From the castle’s ruins you can see St. Lawrence’s Church and its striking 100-foot-high spire, and if you go closer, you’ll not fail to be impressed by its Norman architecture. There’s also The Hermitage, a unique style of religious chapel that individuals used for spiritual and/or religious contemplation; carved into a rock face on the riverside, it transports you to a different historical time. At the north end of Warkworth is a late 14th-century bridge, complete with a defensive gatehouse tower. A plethora of cafes and shops invite you to spend time in them, and the locals are always up for a natter.
His Nibs and I were predictably in town to explore Warkworth Castle but before that we had to pay a visit to Minty, the Little Green Bean Machine and her human, Bob! Minty is a rather splendid, 1972 Bedford Bedouin camper van that has been converted into an artisan coffee haven. Having had enough of the rat-race, Robert followed his passion for beyond fantastic Koffe (coffee) and now sells libations from Brazilian beans that he grinds fresh to produce marvellous-tasting flat whites, cappuccinos, iced lattes, hot lattes (with syrups if wanted), and espressos.
His Nibs opted for a black coffee, and I had a latte with Chainbridge Farm honey from Berwick. Now, everyone knows that you can’t have a great coffee without a sweet treat, right? Enter Bob and his wife Becky, who, between them, whip up Krispy Cakes, dulce and chocolate cookies (ridiculously soft and moreish, FYI) and flapjack so good it’s been on TV as it sustained Rev. Richard Coles on his walking adventures.
I can confirm that all three sweet treats were incredible; don’t judge me, there had been a lot of trekking around and I needed energy! Becky also loves finding sea glass locally, and produces cute glass jars of ‘mermaid’s tears’ as mementos of your visit to Warkworth. Doggies don’t get left out on Minty’s watch: there are scrummy treats for them to top up their energy levels, too. You’ll find Bob and Minty in the castle car park; check the Hãv Koffe website for current opening days and hours. Pop by and say hello – your soul and body will thank you, as will Bob for supporting an independent venture!
Suitably refreshed (and having paid the £4 parking fee, free to English Heritage members), The Man and I headed into the ticket office at Warkworth Castle, to introduce ourselves and find out how to get the most from our visit. The staff were super-friendly and got us kitted out with the free audio-tour ‘phones’ and showed us out into the open ruins, explaining that the numbered stations didn’t have to be followed in order. Each audio section wasn’t too long either, perfect for those peeps like me that have the attention span of a gnat, but still want all ‘the tea’!
Warkworth Castle’s earliest foundations date back to the 1150s, though the Percy family aka Dukes of Northumberland have only owned it since the 14th century. Before the Percys (whose Queen? Blackadder fans will get that reference!), the Fitz Richard/Fitz Eustace family were granted a charter to the castle.
Warkworth Castle has a chequered history of ownership, due to the Crown confiscating it in times of rebellion and during the turbulent fighting between the houses of Lancaster and York, aka The Wars of the Roses. Today, the Percy family retain legal ownership of the castle, though it has been in ‘state custody’ for more than one hundred years. English Heritage have, since 1984, managed the day-to-day running of the site to the public.
One exception is the Duke’s Chambers within the keep; these remain under the direct private control of the Percy family. During certain times, the doors to these rooms are open to allow visitors to admire the furnishings.
The weather gods were smiling upon us, and The Man and I found ourselves lost in history for a couple of hours; listening to the audio guide, exploring the ruins and immersing ourselves in the feel of the castle’s walls. I have no doubt that we could’ve spent even longer at Warkworth, but we had to head over to Craster for a spot of lunch at The Jolly Fisherman. Hot (spur) Wings happily given to the [even in ruins] beautiful Warkworth Castle.
Standard on-the-day entry to Warkworth Castle costs £10.90 adult, £5.40 child (5–17 years), £10 concessions, and £27.20 for a family ticket covering two adults and up to three children – these prices exclude a donation. Prices vary depending on the date of your visit, so check the English Heritage website before travelling. If you book online by midnight the day before your visit, you get a 15% discount off the entry prices
