#NC500 Day 12 - From Inverness to Blair Atholl Via The Highland Folk Museum
Published On Monday 17 Jul 2023 by Sticky Beak
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Aaaaah, that was better! Shame the traffic started in earnest about 6am though; wouldn’t have been so bad if we hadn’t got the windows open to help cool the room down. Mind you, we were getting up soon after, so it didn’t matter.
We got dressed and wandered over to The Star Inn and walked into the dining room and, as well as a raft of cereals on wall-mounted dispensers, there were bowls of chopped, fresh Strawberries and Watermelon and Blueberries, as well as Apples and Bananas in a fruit bowl. I heaped the berries and Melon in to a bowl and grabbed a glass of orange juice; that was 4 of my 5-a-day smashed already!
A lovely lady took our breakfast order – 2 full fry-ups with link Sausage, slab Sausage, Bacon, Black Pud, Mushrooms, Hash Brown, Beans, Fried Egg and Tomato – and also brought out pots of tea for us. Big pots of fresh filter coffee were on the go, too, for those that like coffee in the morning. Toast comes with the fried brekkies and there was a selection of Jams and Marmalade (or just butter) to pop on it. Everything was piping hot and there was plenty of it; our bellies were fit to pop as we packed up the jalopy and headed for Clava Cairns.
The Cairns are an ancient burial site and are still in remarkably good condition. Stones of varying heights and shapes pepper the landscape and some almost form a protective ring around the Cairns themselves. There’s an informative board near to each Cairn with notes about its placement etc. We didn’t realise until we ‘ear-wigged’ on a guided tour that this was the setting for some of the TV series, Outlander!
Our second stop of the day was to the Highland Folk Museum, which saw us drive through the town of Aviemore; a venue popular for skiing in the winter. Although it was summer, the town was still very busy with people visiting, though we got a spot in the car park ok and went to use the toilets. The Highland Folk Museum has a large car park (£3 charge to park), a Cafe, Gift Shop, and toilets. There isn’t an entry fee charged here, but rather a recommended donation of about £11 per person if you’re so minded. We gave the donation and also purchased a guide book (£5) to take with us around the large site.
As with any sort of Museum, there are always projects ongoing, and the Highland Folk Museum is no different; the Curling Pond and Woodman’s Caravan are just two endeavours that the team are working on. We had planned to have a hot drink and cake in the Cafe, but there was a queue and all the tables were occupied; to be honest it wasn’t the biggest venue and could perhaps do with a bit of re-jigging to maximise table space.
We took the hint and got back in the car, making our next stop at the Pattack Falls and Druim an Aird Ruins. The car park here isn’t very big and consists of several areas that can accommodate maybe a couple or three cars – I wouldn’t recommend Campervans or Motorhomes come here as there isn’t a turning area. Pattack Falls themselves are some of the smallest we’ve encountered, but the bit there is is stunning; when we went, the water was cascading down nicely before flowing into the shallows.
In contrast to some falls that have been clear, the water at Pattack Falls is very dark and brackish, something you really appreciate in the quiet places where it isn’t deep water. The walk to Druim an Aird is about 3 miles (so 6 miles there and back) and we had originally planned to do it, but my back decided to throw a paddy and be painful, so we skipped it.
Next up was a stop to the Dalwhinnie Distillery, and what a beautiful site it is! The crisp, white-washed stone stands proud in the landscape and although we didn’t do the tour here, we took time to walk around, and then had a look in the gift shop. Serious fans of Whisky could spend a fortune in here, there were some lovely limited release Whiskies for sale, and some of the bottles and boxes had beautiful designs on them.
Located in Pitagowan (near Blair Atholl), The House of Bruar is a shopping destination not to be missed...especially if you like your Cashmere; and who doesn’t? There were some lovely pieces, and some of the prices were quite reasonable, but I’m sorry £995 for a cardigan is a bit much...I’d be scared to wear it! Even a coat was cheaper!! I left empty-handed, but am tempted to go back and see if there are any bargains to be bagged in the sale warehouse behind the main centre when we head out for Edinburgh tomorrow. Don’t tell The Man Bird the plan, ok??
Ptarmigan House made us smile with joy as we pulled onto its drive – what a beautiful house to stay in! We’ve stayed in some great places on our NC500 adventure, but this one has been the best (and there’s only Edinburgh to go!). Lin greeted us very warmly and showed us up to our double room, which was very stylishly decorated in cream, with grey, muted teal and heather checked accents. A full-length window was letting light stream in to the sitting area that accommodated two chairs and a TV, with the original fireplace still insitu (though no longer working).
Our bathroom had a large corner shower in, complete with toiletries and towels, so we were all set. Lin gave us some recommendations on where to eat, making our day as she said that our original choice (The Loft) was now open on Mondays – it hadn’t been when we booked Ptarmigan House to stay – so we quickly made a booking there and cancelled our other arrangement. Lady Luck was certainly shining on us again.
We decided to walk to The Loft as it was only a 10 minute stroll away and the weather was fine and not particularly cold. Rounding the corner, we both stopped for a second and drank in the beauty of the restaurant; Ivy draped over the turret-style of one part of the building (the staircase, as it turned out), giving it some serious kerb appeal. Terracotta stairs and pristine white walls give The Loft a disticnctly Mediterranean feel, which I assume comes from Nicoleta (co-owner, along with husband Adrian, who was that nights’ Chef) and the welcome we received was as warm as the Med, too. It’s easy to see why The Loft is called The Loft; the open space has high ceilings with narrow wooden beams on them, and the wallpaper is fashioned after lime-washed bricks.
Our table was by the window and over-looked the Terrace which, on a warmer evening, would be the perfect place to dine; as it was we had to content ourselves with gazing at its parasolled tables and colourful, flower-filled planters. To get our evening started, I had a large glass of Shiraz (£6.60) and His Nibs had a bottle of Peroni (£4.25). A chilled bottle of water was also brought out for us, and as we sipped away we waited for our starters, which wasn’t long.
For starter I had the Rabbit Terrine with Loire Valley Wine and Poultry Medallion, Salad, Beetroot and Horseradish Chutney and Oatcakes(£10.50) – I do love Rabbit! – whilst The Man went for the Tender fried Calamari, lightly dusted with fine Breadcrumb, served with Tartare Sauce, Lemon and Salad,(also £10.50).
My terrine had a smooth centre of Rabbit, surrounded by chunky poultry meat and the flavours worked really well together, the intensity of the bunny being tempered by the milder, creamier fowl notes. A mixed leaf, julienned Carrot, Cherry Tomato, Pea Shoot and Cucumber salad was crunchy and colourful, though it was the jewel-coloured Beetroot and Horseradish Chutney that set my palate on fire with its gentle heat-and-earthiness combination. The trio of mini oatcakes provided the perfect vessel on which to pop pieces of the terrine and eat them daintily – see; I can be a laydees sometimes!
The Man Bird was very happy with the Calamari and, having being passed a piece to try, it was easy to see why. A wonderfully light, crisp crumb coating had been fried to golden perfection, and not a trace of oil was detectable in the mouth. Sharp, creamy Tartare sauce coated the tongue and lingered there and a side salad added a welcome cool element. Whilst we’d been eating , our server had checked we were enjoying our food, but it was Nicoleta that cleared the empty plates away, teasing His Nibs at having left a cherry tomato and saying that clearly he hadn’t enjoyed the dish. Love her humour!
Venison has featured quite heavily during our eating out escapades on this trip, and why wouldn’t it?; we’re in Scotland! His Nibs had bagged Bambi this time, in the form of roasted Fillet served with Turnip Mash, Seasonal Vegetables, Scalloped Potato and Taylor’s Port and Sour Cherry Sauce (£23.99), and I had that nights’ special: Red Snapper Fillet with New Zealand Green-shelled Mussels and Atlantic King Prawn in a Tarragon and Prawn Sauce (£24.95).
As with our starters, the presentation was top-notch; nothing was out of place and everything had been assembled for visual impact. The sauce in my dish was sunshine coloured and flecked with green Tarragon, forming a moat in which the Mussels swam, around the tower of jenga-esque Carrot Batons, topped with the Red Snapper and a large King Prawn. Islands of Tenderstem Broccoli and Cauliflower completed the ensemble. All the veggies were crunchy and super-fresh, and the Mussels were large and meaty, with a beautiful chew-time. However, it was the firm flesh of the Red Snapper that got gold from me; Adrian had cooked it to retain its juiciness and its sweet taste bounced over my tongue. What a flavoursome dish!
Chef had cut the Venison fillet into smaller medallions and each one was gorgeously rose pink in its centre. The Man needed no pressure from his knife to cut through the flesh, smiling happily as each piece caressed his palate and, as with my dish, the Sugar-snap Peas, Sprouts, Cauli, Carrot and Kale were all still crunchy. Scalloped Potato was soft and tasty, allowing the unique flavour of Turnip Mash to hit the taste buds, both elements blending harmoniously. Within the port-hued sauce were whole, softened Cherries, not so sour now they had been warmed but still gorgeously bouncy.
Due to snagging an early table (6.30pm as opposed to the 7 or 7.30pm we’d generally been used to this trip) we decided to go all-out and have dessert! The original choice of His Nibs – Chocolate Mousse Cake – was off the menu, so it was the Homemade Sticky Toffee Pudding with Steamed Dates, served with Vanilla Ice Cream and a Toffee Sauce (£8.50) for him, and I had Lavender-infused and Wildflower Honey Crème Brule (£8.95).
It’s been a while since I was entertained with some table theatre, so I was thrilled when the sugar top of my dessert was set alight in front of me, its flame leaping into the air and cavorting for a good 20-30 seconds! Other diners also sat, captivated in the dancing flickers and then, having made the sugar sizzle, they faded away. You all know how I love the sound when the top is thwacked, but I loved it all the more on this occasion. Underneath the dark, golden crust snuggled a pale crème that had the most enchanting note of Lavender at its periphery, one that pirouetted gracefully with the silky wildflower honey and cream. Physallis, Blackberry and Blueberry all accompanied the crème Brulee, as did a piece of buttery shortbread and, in truth; this was all that was needed.
His Nibs is a massive fan of Sticky Toffee Pudding’s, as you know, and the one here at The Loft, did not disappoint! A pleasingly dense (but not clarty) texture and extra layer of softness from the Dates made this an absolute delight to savour, its rich taste lingering on the taste buds. Chef’s velvety Toffee sauce was paler than the pudding itself, but no less flavoursome and luxurious as it flooded over the tongue. In full contrast to the dramatic dark of the Sticky Toffee Pudding, the pallid tone of the good quality Vanilla Ice Cream sparked the senses of vision and taste.
From start to finish this had been an exquisite meal, matched with professional, friendly service in a wonderful setting. Hot Wings happily awarded here, and if ever you find yourselves in Blair Atholl then you definitely need to experience The Loft for yourself!
We strolled the short walk back to Ptarmigan House with full tummies and happy hearts, feeling a bit smug and very lucky that this day of our holiday had been so good; and hopefully a sound nights’ slumber awaited.
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