A New Name, the Same Magic: Returning to Bates at 121
The Man and I had been very kindly invited back to a lovely Derby restaurant, following its unscheduled name change. Formerly known as The Dining Room 121, owners Claire and Simon Bates were issued notice that they were required to change their premises’ name. Inconvenient? Certainly, but not the end-of-the-world for this magnificent duo! Hardly any thought needed to be given to the new moniker; possessing a single-syllable surname made things easy: Bates at 121 it was.
It's been a while since our last visit but, reassuringly, aside from a small rearrangement of the tables, nothing has changed. If something isn’t broken, it doesn’t need fixing, and Claire and Simon certainly know what their clientele like in Derby. With a mere 20 covers, Bates at 121 is very intimate and cosy with that subtle ambience that whispers class and sophistication – quality never needs to shout about its presence.
Adorning the exposed red-brick walls were assorted artworks that stood out against (but seamlessly complemented) the cream toned feature wall near the bar and the gently twinkling garlands of lights that draped from the ceiling. This muted lighting was paired with flickering tealights on each table, creating a relaxed, stylish vibe that was enhanced by easy-listening music playing unobtrusively in the background. Simon and Claire know their profession and craft inside-out, quietly getting on with things, and they pass this high standard of ‘stealth service’ on to their staff. Throughout our evening, the team gave us service that was attentive and professional; the sort where a small glance or gesture would see someone at our side in a trice.
As you would expect from a fine dining venue, the selection of wines was great; not reams and reams long, but the breadth and choice covered was fantastic. There are also lagers, beers, spirits and softs available, and after dinner cocktails!; I opted for a large glass of Bordeaux, and The Man fancied a bottle of Peroni. We were also offered table water without needing to ask, and a nice, half-litre carafe soon found its way onto our table.
Previous experience of Simon’s food meant that we knew to swerve the offer of Bread and/or Olives to nibble at whilst we looked through the [seasonally changing] menu, tempting though it was. A thoughtfully curated offering of inspiring dishes meant that it took us a while to come to our final choices – what a marvellous dilemma to have though, don’t you agree?
Personally, I love all game (animal or bird), so I was thrilled to see both Pigeon and Patridge on offer as starters, choosing to have the Roast Partridge Breast with Juniper-poached Pear, Hazelnut Crumb, Tree Nut Pesto, and herb Oil (£11.95). The Man Bird liked the sound of the Seared Scallops with Pea Puree, Black Pudding, Minted Peas, and Lobster Emulsion (£13.95), so that’s what he ordered to kick his meal off.
Soon, we could hear the sizzle of ingredients being cooked coming from the kitchen at the rear of the venue and our tummies rumbled in anticipation! A short while later, our server carefully placed plates in front of us and checked we had everything we needed before leaving us to tuck in. Surrounded by an artful circle of dazzling Herb Oil, my Partridge was delicately perched on a bed of Pear pieces and a pale crumb of Hazelnut. Verdant Tree Nut Pesto crowned the Game breast, with a garnish of Pea Shoots providing the final flourish.
The Partridge Breast was delicious; Chef had cooked it to perfection! The skin was gently golden and crisped, with the flesh having the merest touch of pink at the centre, fading to a delicate cream under the skin. Partridge is extremely lean and high in Iron, with a sweeter, gamier taste to its moist meat than Chicken. Its characteristic flavour is subtler than other game birds such as Pheasant and Duck, making it a good entry point if you aren’t confident with this type of dish. I was pleased of the absence of ‘shot’, my clean-sheet over the years of eating game remaining unsullied - and my teeth intact! Complementing the subtle taste of the Partridge, the Pears were soft and grainy, zhuzhed with Junipers unmistakeable note. Together with the clean bounce of the Tree Nut Pesto, the lightly bitter, woody Juniper Berries ensured that this starter wasn’t bland and forgettable on the palate in any way, shape or form!
His Nibs’ Scallops were a trio of fat, fragrant jewels from the sea herself. The richly seared outers contrasted with the delicate opacity of the centre, giving these morsels some serious visual appeal. These particular [sizeable] Scallops were firm and meaty to the bite, yet soft and indulgent with a beautiful creaminess and perfume to their flesh that tantalised the taste buds. The optimistic, clean notes of Minted Peas danced over the tongue as if they were enthusiastic participants in a silent disco, ably accompanied by earthy Black Pudding chunks and a deceptively intense, unctuous Lobster Emulsion. Needless to say, The Man Bird’s starter plate was as clean as a whistle, as was mine – testament to our enjoyment of Simon’s efforts so far!
I had decided to keep the ‘Game’ theme going with my main course selection of Roast Duck Breast and Confit Leg (£29.95), accompanied by Celeriac Purée, Potato Parve, Savoy Cabbage roll, and Sweet and Sour Cherry and Duck Jus. The Man Bird shifted his focus from sea to land, opting for Confit Pig Cheek, Porchetta, Chorizo and Bean Ragu, Chorizo Arancini, Pickled Vegetables, and Pork Puffs (£25.95) for his main course.
When food is especially good, as here at Bates at 121, His Maj and I talk animatedly about previous courses whilst we wait for our next one to arrive! Neither of us had come up for air by the time our mains were being presented to us and, honestly, I think that if we’d been eating the same dishes again, we’d have found a myriad of other aspects to remark upon. As it was, we turned our focus to the food in front of us and enthusiastically dug in.
Chef served the Duck Breast skin-on and sliced, allowing me to appreciate the delicate strata and associated colours. Golden, scored skin, pale, creamy fat and rose-pink meat; each layer brought something to the flavour party and swirled together over my tongue, melding perfectly to produce a multi-layered experience. The confit leg was a much more robust affair, taste-wise, and joined beautifully with the breast in the mouth. Crunchy Savoy Cabbage was shredded and rolled, providing a grassy element that was delightfully cleansing; equally remarkable was the tang of the Sour Cherries, contrasting with the richness of the Duck superbly. The Parve Potato was just glorious! Butter and Cream combined with the soft comfort of Potato, its multitude of thin layers rendering it perfect for description as a savoury Mille Feuille. Golden and crisp on its uppermost layer (with a charred tinge), the rest was ethereally pale and tenderly silky. Adding even more indulgence was the glass-smooth Celeriac Purée with its delicately savoury hints of earthiness and nuttiness.
Seldom have I seen His Nibs seemingly spell-bound by a dish, but the intense savouriness and succulence of the Confit Pig Cheek had him enthralled! When asked to describe the dish, all I got was “beyond any words I have!” and a huge grin that threatened to split his face. I did garner the fact that it was ‘edible velvet’, ‘boldly meaty’ and ‘possibly the best thing he’s eaten’. Praise indeed. The Porchetta was juicy, thanks to its fat content, the combination of Loin and Belly meat yielding easily to the bite and lingering in the mouth. Keen to bring harmony and balance to the dish, Chef had incorporated crunchy, pickled Courgette and Cauliflower, both of which brought a sharp tang that cut through the Pork elements skilfully. For a winter season injection of comfort food, His Nibs feasted upon a hearty Chorizo and Bean Ragu and a crisp-outered Chorizo Arancini ball, both of which were excellent.
For dessert, I plumped for Chef Simon’s Chocolate Brownie with Chocolate Cremeux, Cherry Sorbet, Pickled Cherries, Hazelnut Granola, Marshmallow, and Hazelnut and Chocolate Paste (£10.95), and The Man Bird chose the Cheesecake of the Day: Flambéed Banana on this particular occasion (£9.95).
Being totally honest, it was the Cherries that drew me to my choice, rather than the Chocolate. However, I readily admit to being absolutely seduced by the Cremeux; intensely cocoa-y and with a dense, ridiculously silky texture, this was the dessert of dreams. It isn’t often that the headline component of a dish has the limelight stolen from under it but, despite being marvellous, I’m afraid that that is exactly what happened to the Choc-chip studded slice of Brownie here. Whilst it was superbly gooey and rich, the Hazelnut and Chocolate Paste and the Cremeux both eclipsed it…in the best possible way, I should say. Cherry is one of natures classic partners to chocolate, and both guises were resplendent: the sorbet was sharp and cool against the softness and warmth of the Brownie, and the pickled Cherries chirruped with confidence in their zingy edge. More contrast came to tease the senses via pillowy, toasted mini-Marshmallows and crunchy Hazelnut Granola - I was happily sucker-punched by this thrilling dessert! DeLorean, where the heck are you? Take me back time and time and time again (ad infinitum), to relive this gastro memory.
Unlike me (who cannot stand it), His Nibs is quite partial to Banana so he was very happy with his choice of sweet treat. A thin, buttery base of crushed biscuit held a deep, pale body atop it, a generous cloak of Toffee Sauce, halved, caramelised and flambéed Bananas and a crown of dried Banana Chips for some crunch. Where my dessert had been darkly dramatic and moody, this minx was sunny-hued and glossy, ready to strut on the gastro catwalk! Chef had glammed the fruit up with a hint of spice (don’t ask me what, I didn’t have any!), enriching its fragrant flavour, and delivering a stark contrast to the [seemingly] liquid silk of the creamy ‘body’. The Toffee sauce was rich and glossy, lingering in the mouth and cosying up to the inside of the cheeks so that its full attraction was appreciated. This was what you would call a ‘grown up’ dessert; self-assured and complex, with a side of sass - a total triumph!
Our time at Bates at 121 was one of those evenings that will stay long in our memories; faultless service, convivial surroundings, and hauntingly marvellous dishes. Hot Wings hardly seem fitting for this fine dining restaurant; if I had platinum-set, diamond encrusted ones, this would be the moment to hand them out!
To book a table call 01332 613991, and visit www.bates121.co.uk to discover the current menu. Closed Monday and Tuesday, Bates at 121 opens Wednesday and Thursday 5pm-10.30pm, Friday, 5pm-11.30pm, Saturday Noon-11.30pm, and Sunday Noon-6pm.
All Prices Correct At The Time Of Publishing
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