I swear that time flies by faster with every turn around the sun; how on earth has it been a year since The Man Bird and I were last at Compamigos at Mercia Marina in Willington??! Anyhow, what matters is that the venue is still going strong and has launched a new menu, which is why we were snooping about.
Mercia Marina has plenty of on-site parking and, with it being a cold, dark night, we managed to get a spot fairly close to Compamigos. In daylight, the Marina looks beautiful; filled with the house-boats, floating shops and gorgeous views, it’s no wonder that it’s a popular place for dining, drinking, shopping, and walking with dogs and children. Even in the darkness of the evening, the gentle sounds of wildlife and lapping water was beautiful to be in.
Walking through the doors of Compamigos, it was clear that this fantastic venue has lost none of its buzz or popularity. Groups of friends and families were occupying tables near the windows, accompanied by furry family members and children, and there were also couples in booth tables tucking into tasty Tapas dishes. Each table, whatever sort, had a nice ‘privacy’ space between it and its neighbour, and there was a mix of lighting types that provided a cosy (not harsh, though bright enough) feel: back-lit, circular mirrors at the side of the booths, and matte, copper-toned pendants from the ceiling. I have to mention the rather fab, jungle-inspired feature wallpaper along one wall, too – it was gorgeous!
Compamigos assistant manager, Charlotte, was on hand to greet us and swiftly got us settled at our table just to one side of the bar. In the darker, colder months, the team take the decision to close off the upstairs restaurant but, being honest, I think this just adds to the ambience. Being in closer proximity to more people, the natural inclination is to be more interactive, and we were soon yapping away with newly-made friends… and snuggling furry ones, too. With introductions having been done, we turned our gaze to the menu which, as well as all the favourite Tapas being there, now has a new ‘main courses’ section that offers ‘big plates’ to use Tapas bar parlance, and those bang-on-trend, dressed Lettuce Wedges.
We must’ve looked like startled rabbits-in-headlights with all the choice, but Charlotte came to our rescue, suggesting that we have 3 or 4 Tapas to share as starters, and then a main course, or 6-7 Tapas as mains to share. After a bit of debate, we opted to share Tapas to begin, and then have a main – and I was determined to sample one of Compamigos Dressed Salad Wedges, though whether it would be the Blue Cheese and Candied Walnut or the Caesar and Parmesan one, I hadn’t yet decided.
To kick-off, we ordered Chorizo in Vino Tinto (£7.25), Salt & Pepper Crispy Belly Bites (£9.65) and Garlic & Rosemary Patatas Bravas (£6.95). Each Tapas came in its own metal skillet and was simply, but beautifully, garnished. Straight off the bat, I’m just going to say that (like us) you’ll go “wowsers!” if you order the Chorizo in Vino Tinto; to say that you get a skillet-full is the understatement of the year. His Nibs’ face lit up like bonfire night at the plentitude of slices that awaited his tummy, and I have to admit that the flavour was other-worldly. Intense, piquant Chorizo had been cooked skilfully with Red Wine and, with the heat, the oils in the sausage had melded with the wine to produce a seriously flavoursome liquor; pass the bread, this needed mopping up! The majority of Chorizo’s taste comes from the seasoning within it; in addition to Garlic, Pimentón (aka Spanish Smoked Paprika) grabs your palate’s attention, embracing it with a bold, seductive warmth.
The Man is a sucker for Pork Belly, so it was primarily his choice to order the Salt & Pepper Crispy Belly Bites. Decorated with ribbons of Garlic and Soy Mayonnaise (which was delicious, by the way), and scattered with Black- and White- Sesame seeds and sliced Spring Onions, this dish looked beautiful to behold. Pork Belly is comprised of layers of flesh and fat that, when cooked properly, provide that mesmerising combination of super-tender, creamy pork and juicily sweet, softened fat that gives a wicked silkiness to the dish in the mouth. Both of us were in thralls over this – props to you, Chef, this was serving main character energy.
I reckon there must be summat in the air because, as a self-confessed ‘spud sceptic’, I seem to be having some surprisingly positive things to say about the Potatoes I’ve been scoffing recently. At Compamigos, they don’t muck about with their Patatas Bravas, either; chunky cubes were golden and crispy on their outer surface, with a beguiling softness at their centre. So, we’ve ascertained that the ‘Patatas’ element was good; what about the ‘bravas’? I’m happy to report that the Salsa Brava was nothing short of magnificent: the Tomato base was sweet, intense and unctuous, zhuzhed brilliantly with Onion, Garlic, Olive Oil and that amazing Pimentón. Pale, Chive-pimped Aioli fanned out over the skillet in delicate ribbons, looking visually superb as well as tasting great.
Charlotte and her team had checked back to make sure that we were happy with our food and, when they came to clear away our Tapas dishes and bowls, they brought over a carafe of chilled water that we asked for to cleanse our palates. It wasn’t just us that the ladies were keeping an eye on; everyone in the room was chatted to and feedback garnered – no doubting that this team work a room seamlessly.
For mains, we’d opted for Chicken Parmigiana (£16, His Maj) and Seared Salmon Fillet (£21, me), and a Blue Cheese and Candied Walnut Dressed Salad Wedge (£6.25). If it’s a [food] rainbow you want, you won’t get any finer than the dishes we were served at Compamigos at Mercia Marina! Not wanting to disparage the fries at all, I’m going to get them ‘out of the way’ so that I can concentrate your attention to the undisputed star-of-the-show, the Chicken Parm. What’s to say about the fries? Well, they were everything they should be: hot, crisp and golden on the outside, fluffy inside, and served separately to prevent any sogginess from sauce contact occurring.
His Nibs’ Chicken Parmigiana came with a side salad of diced Tomato and Baby Spinach leaves, and the golden, pan-fried crumb outer of the Chicken had been decorated with an ample amount of fire-red Marinara sauce. Ultra-smooth and intensely tasty with its combination of Tomato, Garlic, Herbs and Olive Oil, the Marinara (not forgetting the ridiculously thick layer of melted Mozzarella and Parmesan!) contrasted starkly against the crunch of the breaded Chicken. There was also a pleasingly clear temperature distinction between the warm Chicken and the cool side salad. This was a masterclass in bright, bold flavours that was just utterly dazzling, and a total monster of a portion!
In front of me, glossed to catwalk-worthy perfection, were fat grains of Orzo, that had been cooked perfectly al-dente. Perched regally on top was a juicy, crisp-skinned fillet of rose-pink Salmon that was lusciously oily on the tongue and hypnotically sweet and fragrant; I was bowled over by the fish, and just as smitten with the charred halves and slices of Baby Courgette. A halved Pak Choi was wilted at its tips and still crunchy at its base - as it should be - and its bright zip lit up my palate brilliantly. Dotted artfully at the plate’s periphery was a verdant herb oil with a subtle tinge of citrus; small? maybe; impactful to the dish? certainly.
Partnering my main dish was the simple-sounding Dressed Salad Wedge. Overlook this at your peril! A delightfully chilled, crisp wedge of compactly-layered Lettuce had been transformed into something glorious at the hands of Compamigos Chef. Anchored down by a smidge of tangy Ranch dressing were [seemingly] hundreds of nutty, sweet Candied Walnut pieces whose crunch was wonderful in the mouth. In a sea of paler tones, their dark colour really popped and added visual depth to the side dish. Tangy Blue Cheese had been crumbled and, because it was at room temperature, its flavour was more impactful; the same went for the shards of pungent Parmesan that had been providing a garnish. Managing to be soft, crisp, moist and sweet simultaneously, this side made its way on to my list of favourite things to eat - I will certainly be having it again next time we visit.
Leaving his fries had been a genius move by The Man Bird as it enabled him to still have that magic space in his tummy for dessert. To conclude his meal though, His Nibs surprised me by saying that he was choosing something that was comparatively light: the Lemon Posset (£6.95), despite there being his beloved Sticky Toffee Pudding on the menu (£8.45). For a split second the devil in me surfaced, whispering “go on, you have the Sticky Toffee Pud if he’s not having it” I behaved (and probably averted couples counselling!) and went for the vegan-friendly Black Cherry Chocolate Mousse (£9.95).
Both desserts were presented on oval platters, designed for cups/glasses and biscuits, and here they did the job perfectly. Subtly bowl-shaped, plain glasses had been filled with velvety concoctions: mine cocoa-heavy, his zingily citrus. You really wouldn’t know that my Chocolate mousse was dairy-free; my brains’ pleasure centre lit up with its richness, and I devoured it greedily. Chocolate and Cherry go together like a proverbial horse-and-carriage and here, not only do you get to savour a bold, fruity gel, you get the whole fruits, too. Best of all, there is a buttery shortbread crumb to tempt you as well, sitting there, innocently, on the top of the dessert. Despite my best efforts, I just couldn’t manage to finish the mousse off totally…and sat looking at the remainder forlornly, willing myself to complete the mission!
Fans of lighter desserts can rest assured that the Lemon Posset will fulfil your wish-list: delicious, light, and yet indulgent enough to make you feel special. Partnering the citrus and cream combo (the reaction between the two is what causes the cold custard to set) was a layer of spectacularly intense Mango Purée whose ardency got the palate twanging! Even more fruit came via whole fresh Raspberries though, thankfully, these tempered its peers. For a hint of texture and sweetness, pale shreds of Coconut brought themselves to the party, very welcomely.
Sitting back, replete, we both were reminded on why we both fan-girl/boy over Compamigos: superb food, matched by flawless service, and a fabulous atmosphere. Hot Wings very happily awarded again to this Willington restaurant.
To book a table call 01283 702669 or visit www.compamigos.co.uk and hit the ‘book a table’ button. Compamigos is open Sun-Thurs 10am-8pm, Fri-Sat 10am-11pm, but kitchen times are slightly different: Mon-Thurs 10am-7pm, Fri-Sat 10am-9pm, and Sunday 10am-5pm.
