Dinner At The Three Rosette Peacock At Rowsley
Published On Sunday 20 Apr 2025 by Sticky Beak
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The Man Bird and I have long been fans of Rob Hattersley and his Longbow Venues sites, which include The George at Hathersage and The Maynard at Grindleford. Recently, he acquired The Peacock at Rowsley from Lord and Lady Edward Manners (brother of the current Duke of Rutland) and having been lucky enough to attend the opening, we were thrilled to be asked back to sample the a la carte dinner menu.
Regulars will be pleased to hear that the car parking has been extended, so we grabbed a spot with no hassle at all. The Holly hedge was manicured to perfection as we rounded the corner into the stunning entrance, comprised of stone Peacock presiding from the arch atop the traditional, thick wooden door. A warm greeting was extended to us as our reservation was confirmed, and then we were shown through to the dining room that overlooks the garden.
In the wonderfully bright, mid-spring evening, it was lovely to hear the birds chirruping across the pristine walled garden and to see the pink blossom on the tree. Sinking into the comfy banquette, life felt good. We ordered a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon and table water was offered immediately; sipping at the chilled water, I took in the banquette’s finer details.
The dark green leather that made up the main seat was topped with a beautiful moss green sueded fabric, and a plethora of floral scatter cushions in tones of green, ochre and terracotta added further visual interest as well as comfort. Fans of Robert Thompson [aka Mouseman] furniture will delight in the number of items - not least the tables - that have long stood proudly in The Peacock. Equally beautiful, were mid-back, free-standing chairs with tweed accents to their rear, expertly crafted by local company ‘Twisted Wood’ to harmonise with both the Mouseman furniture and the banquette’s tones.
Complementing the floral theme of the cushions were the heavy drapes that frame the lead-lined windows, and lighting came via the modern, circular lights in the centre, buoyed up by sleek [level adjustable] miniature lamps on each table. A wide range of paintings that adorn the walls also have their own downlights, which adds to the overall light levels in the dining space.
Whilst I’d been gawping about, a lovely young lady gently draped the thick, cloth napkin over my knees and did the same for His Nibs. After ascertaining that we didn’t want the Chef’s selection of canapés to nibble (£4 per person), she left us for a few minutes to choose our starters and mains. In keeping with the other Longbow venues, Chef changes the menu seasonally to ensure that diners savour produce at its peak flavour and quality, so on this occasion I opted for the hand-picked Crab with Radish, Cucumber and warm Citrus Sauce (£17) with Haddon Estate Venison, Jerusalem Artichoke, Kale, Pomme Dauphine and Chocolate for main (£34).
The Man fancied the Aged Comté Custard, Oxtail, French Onion Consommé and Derbyshire Beef Tartare (£16), followed by Sladesdown Farm Duck, Beetroot, Red Cabbage, and Peppercorn Sauce (£36).
Having spied the side plate and butter knife, I was praying that we would be served with bread and, sure enough, one of the team brought out a quenelle of fresh, salted butter whilst her colleague placed a basket containing miniature Miso Milk Loaves and slices of Treacle Bread in the centre of the table. I don’t care what anybody says, there is something about warm, freshly baked bread that is a balm for the soul!
There was a lovely light, fresh flavour to the Miso Milk Loaf that just begged to be slathered in butter…so that’s what we did. I remember my grandma making and baking fresh loaves every day (as well as fruit scones) and her loaves always had thick, crunchy crusts on them; the treacle bread served at The Peacock was exactly the same, and I smiled contentedly as I bit into it. Flavour-wise, this bread was deeper and richer than its peer, though both were delicious.
Both of us reserved a bit of bread for our starters, just in case we needed to mop up any sauce; turns out that we would indeed be doing exactly this! My Crab ensemble looked as pretty as a picture in its white, pebble dish and our server carefully drizzled the fragrant sauce around it all. The sunshine toned sauce was paired with super-fine pink radish slices, a pistachio hued Cucumber mix and the ethereally pale, white Crab meat, and I couldn’t wait to tuck in.
When I took that first mouthful, my palate was stunned at the multitude of tastes that washed over it. Sweetness from the seafood, cool crispness and heat from the mustard-seed pimped Cucumber, and a gorgeous ‘bounce’ from the Orange-laden citrus sauce. What a triumphant starter dish.
His Nibs also got a little bit of table theatre: his French Onion Consommé came in a tiny glass teapot and was expertly poured over his dish by a very dapper, white gloved young man. At first glance, the Oxtail seemed to be missing but, no, it was shyly hiding beneath the halved Onion, and when The Man revealed it, its shreds fell apart in ribbons with its tenderness. Tucking in to it, His Nibs was rewarded with beautifully rich, flavoursome meat that popped against the complex notes of the Consommé.
The aged Comté [cheese] had melted in the dishes’ heat and was that delightful degree of soft gooeyness that cocoons the tongue. Served in a separate dish, the Derbyshire Beef Tartare was brilliantly soft and sharp at once, thanks to the tender meat and tangy Capers and pickles. This was another wonderful starter.
I’d chosen Haddon Estate Venison for my main, and each slice was a deliciously deep Ruby colour at its centre, which ombréd out to the seared brown outer beautifully. As you’d expect, the taste was rich and earthy with a fab gaminess at its periphery; and, oh, the tenderness was beyond anything you could dream of! The trick to gloriously soft, juicy meat is to let it rest adequately to reabsorb any moisture; this process can’t be rushed, but the wait is certainly worth it.
Chef was certainly of the opinion that ‘Bambi’ should be the star of this show, pairing it with a dreamy purée of Jerusalem Artichoke, Salsify cylinders, crispy Kale shards and a jus pimped with Chocolate to add depth. In a separate dish were golden spheres of Pomme Anna, the mix of Mashed Potato and Choux Pastry deep-fried to crisp perfection on the outside and scrummy softness inside; just tremendous.
Across the table from me, His Nibs’ Duck was looking just as glamourous as my Venison, having been sliced and arranged in a fanned arc to showcase its beauty. Cooked and rested to preserve its magnificence, the breast meat was soft and juicy, with that savoury game edge that just makes you smack your lips. Served in its own little dish, the Duck Parfait looked so pretty and artistic, and I’m pleased to say that it tasted just as marvellous.
Smoother than a proverbial millpond in texture, its richness was simply beguiling in the mouth and was the epitome of indulgence. Snuggly wrapped in their Red Cabbage leaf cocoon were earthy shreds of ruby red Beetroot, and both vegetables complemented the Duck Breast perfectly. Providing a great blast of spice and warmth was the Peppercorn sauce that our lovely server had poured over the dish, as it was served, in a lake around the plate. Again, this was a cracking meal.
As with the starter selection, there are a quartet of choices of dessert to tempt you and I went for the Chocolate, Prune and Blood Orange with Pedro Ximenez Custard (£13), with The Man going with the Toffee Apple Semifreddo, Cheesecake Cream, Rhubarb, and Cinnamon Beignets (£11).
Now, I know a lot of folks don’t like Prunes (having been scarred for life at school by the dismal ones served with lunch!), but they are actually one of the most under-rated fruits, I feel. Prunes are dried Plums, and so have that incredible duality which allows them to be used in savoury and sweet dishes with equal success. Paired with the Chocolate [dome top] in my dessert, the puréed Prune brought their slight tart note to the table, which made the cocoa ‘pop’ in the mouth.
Further sharpness was provided by the Blood Orange, in the guise of finely shredded peel and a frozen cream confection and, as if any more scrumminess was needed, the wickedly airy Pedro Ximenez Custard added sweetness in a way that only a traditional Andalucian Sherry can do. I was smitten with this dessert and my palate totally [and happily] unravelled in its web of tastes, temperatures and texture; props to you, Chef.
Everybody loves a Toffee Apple; as Brits, we have enjoyed them at fairgrounds since being toddlers, along with Candyfloss; so much so, that they’re part of the fabric of our souls! With his stupidly sweet tooth, there was no way that His Nibs was going to pass up this opportunity to indulge, especially when paired with an indulgent Cheesecake Cream. On the very outer of this dessert were microscopically thin slices of sharp Apple, garnishing the Apple semifreddo that also contained teeny-tiny pieces of crunchy Rhubarb within it – nice surprise for the senses, there.
A creamy Cheesecake sat proudly on top of this, and then a domed crown of moulded Toffee topped it all. Miniature Beignets (doughnuts to you and I) were in their own little bowl, sparkling gently with their dusting of sugar. The fried outers were gorgeously crisp and revealed a centre of Rhubarb puree that contrasted brilliantly with the sweet element.
Oh! What a marvellous meal this had been, matched by the attentive service from The Peacock team. Check backs had been done at each course and every dish explained as it was presented to us. Our coats had been taken away and hung up, and returned to us at reception as we left. Having a memorable experience relies on more than just fantastic food, and The Peacock at Rowsley endeavours to deliver this…and succeeds with aplomb. Hot Wings happily given to this superb venue and team.
To book a table (or a room in The Peacock), ring 01629 733518 or visit the website www.thepeacockatrowsley.com and hit the ‘dine with us’ button. If you fancy a stay in one of the boutique rooms, then hit the ‘stay with us’ button. Whilst you’re on the website, have a good look at the various menus, there is plenty of choice to get your mouth watering!
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