Kirsteen (our host at Bonnie Haven) was up bright and early to ensure that we had a selection of cheeses, crackers and Ham on our table when we came down, and directed us to the counter that was laden with a plethora of cereals, fresh berries in bowls, fruit in a basket and the tray of yoghurts.
No-one goes hungry on Kirsteen’s watch, that’s for sure!! There were also Croissants to have and we could have toast too, if we fancied. Whilst we helped ourselves to fruit and yoghurt, Kirsteen scurried round, making pots of tea for us.
The one thing I feel that needs mentioning, is the interest Kirsteen takes in her guests travels; once she’d figured out what sort of trip we were having, she got out all her books and notes, coming up with hundreds of suggestions for nearby things that we might like on our onward journey... now that’s going above and beyond. We waved our host goodbye and set off for Ardbreck Castle ruins (also factoring in a visit to the small falls that Kirsteen had mentioned), with full tummies and happy hearts.
Ardbreck castle has parking for about a dozen cars I would say, and the walk over is a pretty easy one. You can walk the trail in trainers and just remove them to paddle through the shallows to get to the ruins, or if you’re wearing waterproof footwear simply walk through. The ruins are fully accessible, but please don’t let your kids climb on them as one couple (Scottish, may I add!!) was doing...numpties.
Our next stop was Knockan Crag Nature Reserve, and there’s decent parking and toilets here (honesty box for donations). The viewing area is superb and there are several trails to go exploring around; wear suitable clothing if you’re doing to do the one that takes you to the Crag Top, though.
Ardmair Bay was an unexpected bonus for us; we spotted its clear waters from the road and pulled over to the viewing point, parked up and went to see if was as good as it had looked...it was! A couple of folks were already donning their wetsuits and heading out for a dip in the waters; His Nibs got some of the flat pebbles and dusted off his skimming skills, big kid that he is.
On the road once more, Rhue Lighthouse was our next stop. Gotta be honest, it was nothing spectacular and the parking is big enough for maybe four cars, so unless artificial lighthouses are your bag, I wouldn’t especially rush to see this.
I like pottery, so it was a natural thing for us to stop off at Highland Stoneware Pottery in Ullapool for a look round their shop. They have a good sized car park and a pair of stunning mosaics: a fishing boat at the bottom of the parking, and a fish mural near the studio entrance. Kirsteen had warned us that prices were steep, but £32 (and the shop prices are as those for seconds) for a mug had me wincing, never mind The Man (who I thought was going to faint!). There is a Tesco and a petrol station in the town, should you need food or fuel.
The Falls Of Measach at Corrieshalloch Gorge were on our list to visit...and it seemed they were on everyone else’s too! The ample car park was already full, but luckily there is a good-sized overflow one about 500metres down the road. Parking charges are £5 for cars and £10 for campers/motorhomes; there are waste disposal facilities here for those who need them. The pathways to the falls are well laid out and very accessible, though not suitable for wheelchairs or for those unsteady on their feet I would say.
After we went over the suspension bridge and then further down the gorge to the viewing point (well worth the effort, these falls are a must-see) we headed back and treated ourselves to a Hot Chocolate. Cocoa Mountain are never going to be beaten in the Hot Choc Stakes but, for a venue takeaway cafe, the ones here are blooming awesome. When you go to the window to place your order, you’re given a device that buzzes/vibrates when your drink is ready, so you can sit at one of the tables and chill rather than hang around aimlessly and clog up the order area. Nifty or what?
Hitting the road again, we did a little nostalgia stop-off for The Man Bird at Little Loch Broom in Dundonnell; as a nipper he used to visit here and stay with friends, taking a boat out on the loch to fish for Mackerel. A couple of miles further on is Gruniard Bay viewing area for Gruniard Island aka Anthrax Island, due to it being used by the government to test Anthrax’s effects (bio-warfare in its infancy, nice thought eh?). I should just point out that it is decontaminated now!
Moving on to something altogether more pleasant, we paid a visit to the lovely Dale, Mr Highland Woodturner himself, his wife Maria and their extremely handsome Bengal cat, Otis. As we pulled up, Dale was coming out of his workshop, dusting the wood chippings off himself and shaking our hands. All of us headed into his delightful shop, where I picked up a large wooden chopping board and a candle holder that he’d literally finished making within the last hour. Otis had directed me towards this item, so he has serious sales skills...and charm to burn. Cash is preferred here, due to the high card fees, but they do accept card payment quite happily.
We were peckish by this point in the day (about 2.45pm) so we stopped in Poolewe at the House of Pies (formerly the Bridge Cottage Cafe) to meet owner Beatrice, who we’d been engaging with for a while. This lady is a one-woman outfit, making all her pies and cooking in the evenings as well! I had the delicious breakfast pie (£4.90) that contains Mushrooms, Sausage, Bacon, Beans, Egg and Haggis and, wowsers it was good..and very filling. His Nibs had the Burns pie (also £4.90), filled with Haggis, Neeps and Tatties in a pasty shape; again it was super scrummy and very satisfying. Both pies were piping hot in their counter, and had been made fresh that morning. A successful little lunchtime foray on our part; if you’re in the area, please do go in and try Beatrice’s goods for yourself.
Then we headed to Big Sand Beach; folks, don’t go there!! It’s a private site, so don’t be dufus’s like us. Beating a hasty retreat at our error, we headed to our accommodation for the night, Gairloch Hotel, and went on the beach there instead. Our spacious room gave us great sea views from the large windows and I was a very happy bunny to see a bath-tub in the bathroom!!!
We’d booked a table at The Black Pearl Creole Restaurant in Gairloch for dinner; something a bit different for Scotland! I’ll let you know what we thought next...
Other than a black sign stating its whereabouts, Black Pearl is fairly unassuming from the pavement but, as you get closer, you can see a gorgeous outdoor courtyard area strewn with fairylights and wooden tables that has a wonderful, chilled vibe to it. Inside there’s a black wall that wraps around to the counter, and the colourful mural there is stunning. As you’d expect from a ‘cantina’ style venue, the menu isn’t overly complicated; about 8 savoury dishes (some vegetarian) and a couple of desserts.
We ordered a rum punch (£8) for me and a bottle of Red Stripe lager (£4) for The Man, and four dishes to share: Jerk Chicken (£13) and BBQ Pork (£16.50 - both come with Rice-n-Peas, and ‘Slaw, Sweet Potato Nests (like Pakoras, £5) and Kingston Mac-n-Cheese (£6). All the dishes came in red ‘baskets’, cantina-style, and each table had a notice for you to clear away your table after eating – again, very cantina. Creole food is renowned for being colourful and all the dishes at Black Pearl delivered on this front.
The chicken was moist and juicy with a deliciously fragrant, hottish spice coating, and both of us loved this! The BBQ Pork was surprisingly mild and creamy, with a smoky hint at the edge of its flavour profile that tempted our palates. One thing I love about rice is its ability to soak up liquids and take on the flavours it meets, and here there were meat juices and sweet, tangy spices to enhance the grains! The rainbow ‘slaw was nicely crunchy with the added pizzazz of Pumpkin seeds and Pomegranate seeds, just for something different; oh and there was vinegar tang just at the finish to make your lips smack.
The Kingston Mac-n-Cheese was comfort food with a tantalising twist! The pasta was cooked perfectly and then smothered in a thick, creamy cheese-laden sauce, but the twist was the streams of spicy sauce that added a pop of colour on the top of this dish, as well as giving it a good Creole zhuzh. Bringing things down a notch were the super-crisp Sweet Potato Nests (or little balls of sunshine as I called them); these were nice and mild, the spice coming from a pepper sauce that was drizzled on the edge (so you could omit it if you wanted). A bed of mixed leaves completed this simple-but-tasty dish.
Chef doesn’t skimp on quality or quantity at the Black Pearl Creole kitchen in Gairloch; our tummies were bursting! However, we had spied the Rum Sticky Toffee Pudding and Coconut Cake (£5 each) and couldn’t resist their charms. His Nibs was in love with his Sticky Toffee pud’s dense texture and rich taste...and then the sauce hit his palate! Let’s just say that you can taste the rum and savour its warming effects. If it says it’s got Rum in it at Black Pearl, it’s got Rum in it.
I’d gone for the creamy flavoured, textural Coconut Pie with pieces of freeze-dried Raspberry on its top, and the marriage of these two elements was wonderful. Best of all, it didn’t leave me feeling heavy and bloated...perhaps as well, as we’d got to walk back to the Hotel!
Our total bill came to £63 which, for a couple of drinks, four dishes and two puds, we thought was pretty good. Both His Nibs and I said we’d visit here again quite happily: Hot Wings. So, if you find yourself this side of Scotland for whatever reason, you’d do a lot worse than dine at Black Pearl Creole Kitchen in Gairloch – and it’s dog- and child-friendly as well!
