#NC500 Day 5 - Tain To Helmsdale Stopping For A Wee Dram
Published On Monday 10 Jul 2023 by Sticky Beak
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The bed last night at Shandwick House in Tain was wonderfully comfy and, combined with the little lie-in we’d afforded ourselves, it meant that we were raring to go on another day’s adventures.
Before we headed out though, we ate an excellent full fry-up cooked by Dennis – with perfect Scrambled Eggs that were comfortingly moist, as per my request! I have to say that Dennis and Clara really do go out of their way to ensure guests have their dream stay. Proper Bacon, sliced thickly, got His Nibs and I grinning as we popped pieces into our mouths and I was jolly happy with the slice of Black Pudding I got.
Tattie scones provided the perfect means to scoop up beans and sausage with; and who doesn’t love them? Fresh fruit juices and unlimited Tea and Coffee are provided, along with yoghurts, cereals and bread to toast. What got my attention though were the bowls of fresh berries: Raspberries, Strawberries and Blueberries soon found themselves being heaped into a bowl and covered with natural yoghurt! The Man Bird skipped the yoghurt, but ensured he got lots of fruit into his system.
With full tummies, we left Shandwick House and made our way to the Glenmorangie Distillery for our guided tour round the site. Kelsey may only be young, but she was a fantastic guide, answering any questions thrown at her and all done with a fab humour. We were given two Whiskies to sample, but because we’re driving we took them away in little labelled bottles to savour at our leisure. We mooched around a bit, taking photos, as there’s not much opportunity to do so along the tour.
After waving goodbye to Dornoch Firth and Glemorangie we drove to the picturesque town of Dornoch (just as super as Tain) to view the Cathedral there and sample some quite wonderful Hot Chocolate from the Cocoa Mountain team. Having tried it for ourselves, we can say that it blows Hotel Chocolat’s offering out of the water: not something I thought I would ever say!! Everyone knows that holiday calories don’t count, right? So no guilt whatsoever on my part as I finished the scrumptious hot chocolate and accompanying handmade chocolates that Paul had popped to one side for us.
We had Coffee and Vanilla, Raspberry, Arriba Ecuador, and Ginger chocolates to savour, and they were all superb! The Ginger minx was beautifully warming and paired with a dark Ganache; oooh, yummy! Raspberries are temptingly sharp and intense anyhow but, here they were excellent as they popped against the dark chocolate. The Arriba Ecuador sample was impossibly silky on the tongue, its milk chocolate heart delighting our palates. Coffee and Vanilla is a natural pairing, and the gentle hint of coffee peeked through the creamy white chocolate, vanilla-enhanced Ganache superbly.
After the massive mug of hot choc, we had to avail ourselves of the toilets in Dornoch (lovely and clean, and free to use). Suitably ‘unburdened’, we went over to Dornoch Beach (also toilets to use here) and found a spot in the decent sized car park which also has a separate section for campervans and motorhomes. The beach here is beautifully soft sand and there’s a little play area for kids just at its entrance, should they need to burn off extra energy!
Soon after, we went to another beach, this time at Embo. This is a total gem, still quite undiscovered – no doubt due to the fact that you need to go through the Parkdean Caravan Park to get to it (which you’re perfectly entitled to do, though they probably don’t like it!). I wouldn’t do it if you’re in a motorhome, you’ll struggle with the inclines at the end to get to the car park itself; smaller campervans will probably just about do it – but don’t hold me to it, we were in a car! There are lovely dunes to shelter in if the wind picks up, and I found an intact Razor Clam shell as we were walking along, which chuffed me to bits.
Dennis at Shandwick House in Tain had asked what our plans for the day were, and when we mentioned going to the Falls of Shin to see if we could spot Salmon leaping, said that because there’d been some rain that raised the (recently low) water levels, we should be in luck. Turns out he was right – cheers Dennis!
The fairly short, circular walk was nice and there’s a great platform from which to view the leaping point...all we had to do was be patient and keep our fingers crossed. Thankfully we didn’t have long to wait before our first fish made his bid for freedom and leaped into the air, impressing us with his athleticism.
Up until this point on our Scottish Odyssey we’ve been dead jammy, but sooner or later our luck had to run out. Pulling into the car park at Dunrobin Castle, we ambled down to the stunning home of Earls and Dukes of Sutherland, only to discover that last admission had passed. Not to dwell on our misfortune, we set off for Brora Beach, and ended the day with some quiet reflection time listening to the waves crash on the pebbles. There’s also a sandy side of the beach, so take your pick as to which one floats your boat when you visit...or do both!
We’d booked into Navidale House Hotel in Helmsdale for the night and got a really nice greeting from the lady on reception. Our room was light, airy and spacious, but you cannot imagine the joy I felt when I clapped eyes on the bath in the bathroom – guess what I’ll be doing later; yep, wallowing like a beached whale in a tub of hot water!! There’s a wardrobe to hang clothes up in, a hostess trolley with teas, coffee, Hot Choc and biscuits on, and toiletries are provided: Shampoo, Conditioner, Shower Gel and Soap. Although there’s a bar at the Hotel, they don’t do food, so we’d booked in at La Mirage in Helmsdale for dinner.
Now, if you love a bit of ‘quirk’, then La Mirage is going to be right up your street! In the window is a huge, furry Seal in Sailor’s garb (bearing a placard of an award the venue won), which gives you some idea of what’s in store. Inside is a fairy-light strewn tree in the centre of the space, along with a fishnet- and corset-wearing bottom half of a mannequin which is a stand-up lamp!! Those of a certain age will remember the TV programme ‘CHiPs’, well one of those guys was in attendance as another life-size mannequin, just along from a photo of Dame Barbara Cartland on the wall. Bonkers or what??!
Thankfully, the food is certainly more ‘mainstream’. His Nibs ordered a bottle of Beck’s and I had a small glass of Malbec, then we had a large Battered Haddock with Chips, Mushy Peas and Tartare Sauce (£18.75,The Man) and ‘so special it wasn’t on the board because they’d only just got them, special’ main of Langoustines and Salad (£23.95) for me. You can always tell a good restaurant by the fact that locals go in to dine, and there was no shortage of locals in La Mirage; no shortage of them either at the chippy takeaway next door that’s owned by the same team.
His Nibs was well impressed with the size of his Haddock and even more so by the fact that the batter was beautifully light and crisp and not at all greasy. You can’t have fab fish and crappy chips, it just isn’t cricket, and thankfully the ones at La Mirage were every bit as delicious as the Haddock. The mushies were good, too, though I’m not sure I’ll be so happy when their effects come squeaking from His Nibs’ derriere in the next few hours – he could be kipping outside tonight!
Chef had taken great care to present my half dozen, huge Langoustines in a way that captures the eccentricity of La Mirage, so half a lemon had been utilised to stick their front claws into, so that they were all sat upright and ‘staring’ at their consumer! Brilliant. I had no hesitation in ripping their heads off and chomping on their sweet, plump, juicy bodies and then cracking their claws open with the metal implement to extract every last bit of meat; call me barbaric, I don’t care!
A colourful, flavoursome salad of Iceberg Lettuce, Beetroot, Peach, Tomato, Cucumber, Red Onion and Cress, and pot of Marie Rose sauce were all that came with the Langoustines, but when I’d finished, I was absolutely stuffed! We declined dessert as our tummies were full, which should give you some indication as to the portion size you get at La Mirage! The menu isn’t the fanciest in the world, but by golly it’s good grub! Hot Wings happily given here.
When we got back to Navidale House Hotel we had a Gin and Tonic, the cost of which was just over a tenner – more than reasonable we thought; we’d been expecting nearer £14. Another positive tick for this fab place; let’s see what breakfast’s like in the morning!
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