I often wang on about everything being in balance so, having drunk to the max at Alnwick Brewery’s tour, it was time for some eating. Hurrah, my favourite thing to do! It was so nice to return to Alnmouth, the village where I first discovered books by local author, L.J. Ross, during one summer when we rented a cottage there. On that holiday, we’d tried to book into The Whittling House for dinner, but were unsuccessful. Fast forward a few years, and this collaborative trip with Experience North-East England saw us actually booked in for dinner.
The Whittling House is a stunning stone-built building that, as well as having a restaurant, has 10 rooms of accommodation...hmmm, maybe a possible stay there is in the stars; who knows? The restaurant has two levels and we were seated on a deeply padded (well used in places) banquette at a table in the upper area. The mix of tables were sturdy wood types with free-standing, spindle-back chairs and a log burner that was overlooked by a splendid set of deer antlers. Chalky blues and putty tones created a calm, restful feel that was jolly conducive to dining, and the lower space had feature wallpaper of birds in flight for a pop of visual interest.
Having totally got my feet ‘under the table’ and made myself at home, the first decision to be made was what to drink: New Zealand Sauv Blanc for me and a diet coke for The Man. Having done that, it was time to give the menu our full attention. The Whittling House champion local produce where possible and use in-season ingredients to ensure guests have dishes that burst with prime flavours and textures. Northumberland is known for its marvellous fish and seafood, so the natural choice for my starter was the Cured and Scorched North Sea Mackerel with Mango and Fennel Escabeche, Ceviche Dressing and Wakame (£14). His Nibs plumped for the Ox Cheek and Mozzarella Croquette with Confit Garlic Emulsion and Barbecued Plum Gel (£12.50).
It wasn’t long before our lovely server (who’d bailed me out by providing a file for my broken nail) was bringing our starter choices out, and we dug straight in. My Mackerel fillet was silky and oily in the mouth; unbelievably moist and lusciously buttery on the palate, it had my taste buds in raptures! Providing balance to its luxuriance were strands of Wakame, an edible Seaweed, and a delightfully tangy Escabeche of Mango and crunchy Fennel that was, in itself, a juxtaposition of sweet and savoury. Even more punch came via the citrus ping of the Ceviche Dressing, but do you know what? The Mackerel’s naturally high oil content stood the onslaught perfectly.
Across the table, The Man Bird was chirruping happily as he took the first mouthful of the succulent, rich-tasting shreds of Ox Cheek housed within a beautifully crisp coating. Paired with oozy Mozzarella, this Croquette turned out to be a beast-and-a-half...in a good way, obvs! Ribbons of pale Confit Garlic Emulsion and jewel-toned Barbecued Plum Gel covered the sizeable Croquette, each adding a distinct layer of taste that complemented the depth of the Ox Cheek. Another triumph for the kitchen team.
Staying with his theme of richer tasting meats, His Nibs ordered the Northumbrian Venison Pie with Creamy Mash, and Red Wine and Baby Onion Gravy (£28); following his lead, I also followed the marine trend of my starter by choosing Roast Fillet of Hake with Saffron Shellfish Broth, Summer Veg, and Turned Potatoes (£32).
No-one can possibly accuse The Whittling House team of under-feeding their guests: His Nibs’ individual Venison Pie could have fed an entire Army! The short pastry case was rich and stout, filled with equally impressive chunks of Venison in a thick gravy that had The Man enthralled. Baby Onions and Carrots had been placed on the pie’s top, and Broccoli florets were scattered around the plate, bathing in a hearty, meaty gravy that matched the deep flavour of the Venison superbly.
My Roast Fillet of Hake had a gorgeously golden, pan-crisped skin on one side, and pale, meaty-textured flesh on the other. Hake is delicately sweet and paired perfectly with the in-shell Mussels and Clams that formed a reverential circle around it on the plate. Asparagus Spears and skinned, baby Broad Beans complemented the fish with their sweet, grassy, vegetal character, leaving the Saffron Shellfish broth to be the bolder, more insistent sibling of the dish. Turned Potatoes were fashioned skilfully, taking on their characteristic football/barrel shape and stylishly tapered ends. I’m not the world’s biggest Potato fan, but these ones were nutty and sweet in taste, with a delicate flouriness, despite being gently firm to the knife’s pressure. This was an amazing dish; one that had been skilfully produced.
Shamefully, we had to decline the offer of dessert; lunch at The Jolly Fisherman in Craster had just been that bit too satiating, and had used up the reserve space in our tummies that is normally left for pudding. Blooming amateurs, aren’t we?!
Throughout our evening, the staff had been superstars and made sure that we were happy with our food. We had wanted for nothing, and had a thoroughly magnificent time at The Whittling House in Alnmouth; Hot Wings very happily given here!
The Whittling House is located at 24–25 Northumberland Street, Alnmouth, Northumberland, NE66 2RA. To book, call 01665 463001 or visit thewhittlinghouse.co.uk.
We were invited to dine here as part of our press trip organised by Experience North East England, supported by NewcastleGateshead, Visit Northumberland and Visit County Durham.
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