The Man and I were kindly invited along for the monthly Steak Night at 2 AA-Rosette awarded The Dovecote Restaurant at Morley Hayes, a place we’d visited not so long ago and had a divine Brunch in; needless to say, we had high hopes for the evening meal. There are oodles of on-site parking spots so you’ll never struggle to grab one. Having parked the jalopy, we wandered up the steps to the foyer area of the restaurant, which was thrumming with diners enjoying pre-prandial tipples already. In case you’re wondering, those with accessibility needs have a ramp just to the left of the steps.
Having confirmed our reservation with the lovely young lady, we joined our fellow diners in having a drink: large Shiraz for me, large Picpoul for His Nibs. As well as an extensive selection of wines, fans of cocktails, ciders and beers are also well catered for, and obviously those that don’t drink can choose from all the usual softs. Looking around whilst I sipped, I have to say that the bar/lounge/foyer area is unbelievably gorgeous; based on a palate of calming blues with accents of gold, it balances modernity with tradition seamlessly. I particularly loved the pair of huge, multi-shade pendant lights and the strikingly patterned wallpaper whose character is echoed on the upholstery of the mid-back chairs.
It was whilst we sat in the delightful foyer that we chose our feast, something that I do rather like but that not many places do now; instead, the ‘norm’ is ordering at the table. Another thing that I liked was the fact that, although it was the Steak Night (on every last Friday of the month) there was plenty of choice for those that either don’t eat red meat or eschew meat altogether.
For starters we chose Miso-glazed Mackerel with Tempura Oyster and Apple and Kohlrabi Remoulade (£14.50) and Chicken and Duck Liver Parfait with Spiced Plums and Brioche Loaf (£14): mine and The Mans’ choice respectively. Having gushed so fervently over the Allsop brothers (Morley Hayes’ owners) Dexter Beef on our last visit, it seemed only right to opt for the 16oz Dexter Fillet (£80), a sharing main course, accompanied by your choice of two sides and two sauces.
When it was time for our table, one of the immaculately turned-out team escorted us through to the airy Dovecote Restaurant and asked if we’d like water for the table. A short time after bringing our water over, Amelie was bringing us with our exquisitely presented starters. Visually, the contrast between the dishes components and the crockery was superb and, as we all know, those first impressions are the most important! My Miso-glazed Mackerel had marvellously crisped skin on one side, and this had preserved the moistness of the fish itself. Mackerel, as an oily fish, is richer in flavour than its white cousins (Cod etc.) which made it the ideal partner for the nutty, salty savouriness of the White Miso glaze. I loved the gossamer-fine Tempura batter that surrounded the single Oyster, and a glorious blast of crunch came via the gently creamy Apple and Kohlrabi Remoulade. This starter was a magnificent balance of tastes and textures, and I would happily order this time and time again.
The Man Bird declared that his choice of Chicken and Duck Liver Parfait was impossibly good – praise indeed! Delightfully creamy and indulgent, this parfait was smoother than a millpond and tremendously deep in flavour. I was lucky enough to be passed a small piece of warm Brioche and Parfait over and, crikey, my palate was swept away by its intensity. The miniature Brioche Loaf was shaped in the mould of a flower with a quintet of petals, and was comfortingly buttery and sumptuous, so you would perhaps think this starter to be all about richness? Chef, though, had brought a counter to this in the guise of sharp slices of Pickled Plum; very clever!
Our Dexter Fillet was presented in a metal, oval-shaped platter that showcased not only its impressive (re-assembled whole) size but also each slice of rose-centred meat. You may also opt to have your steak cooked through, but we prefer to see that change from brown seared outer and pink middle; for those who quibble at having their meat pink, there was no blood oozing at all. Simply accompanied by Watercress and on-vine, roasted Cherry Tomatoes, the Dexter Fillet was taking the spotlight, and rightly so; the steak was blindingly good and with a depth of flavour that many other breeds of cattle can’t match. Actually, we both remarked that this was possibly the nicest steak we’ve ever eaten.
Both The Man and I had ordered Peppercorn sauce, and this came in a separate jug; regular supporters know that one of my major ‘icks’ is having sauces and gravy just flowing willy-nilly round my plate. Needless to say, the Triple-cooked Chips were soon getting [enthusiastically] baptized in the holy Peppercorn water, and our taste buds applauded at its balance of cream and pepper spiciness. Speaking of the triple-cooked chips, they may have taken the long-held crown from Chef Ray Moody at Higham Farm Hotel for the best ones – though I am just going to caveat that by saying Ray’s aren’t triple-cooked. Anyhow, the outers were golden and super-crisp and the inners were soft and fluffy, with a great taste and no residual oiliness at all. The contrast between the bold bite of the Watercress and intense sweetness of the roasted Cherry Tomatoes was another sublime touch to this dish.
My choice of side dish was the rather scrummy-sounding Spinach, Leek and Cheese Gratin, and it didn’t disappoint in the flesh, so to speak. Amelie advised caution as to the temperature of the cast iron pot as she placed it down, and the cooked-fresh contents released a cloud of steam as I cut into it with the spoon. No hanging around on the pass in the kitchen at The Dovecote Restaurant at Morley Hayes; easy to see why it consistently holds on to its pair of AA rosettes. A golden crust was decorated with snipped fresh Chives and revealed a sumptuous filling of perfectly seasoned, softened Spinach and Leek bathed in an unctuous, cheese-heavy sauce. This was comfort food with a polished, classy upgrade: simply spectacular.
Having cleared our empty plates and dishes away, Amelie swiftly and discreetly used a crumber to remove any fine debris on the cloth; another touch that elevates a venue to fine-dining status. Happy with her endeavours, Amelie then enquired as to whether we’d like dessert… and as if by magic, the menu reappeared in a flash!
No surprises when I tell you that The Man chose Chocolate, Coffee and Hazelnut Delice with Milk Ice Cream (£10) as his dessert, or when I say that it was splendid. This indulgent minx was as breath-taking as the Koh-I-Noor diamond. Each element was clearly discernible without vying for attention at its neighbours’ expense, and the ultra-smooth Delice had a hint of crunch within its base to tempt the senses. The Ice Cream was surprisingly light in the mouth with a luscious silkiness to it. Chef, you are a mightily skilled culinary Magician; hats off to you and your team!
I had opted to have the Pear and Blackberry Crumble Tart with Crème Anglaise (£10) to conclude my meal, and let me just say that this delight brought me to my knees in worship; phenomenal doesn’t even come close to describing it! The pastry literally melted in the warmth of my mouth, it was that rich and ‘short’. Aromatic Pear and tart Blackberry had been softened (but not rendered soggy), their flavours fusing together in balance and harmony, partnered by a gently sweet, textural crumble topping. A rich Crème Anglaise (posh custard to you and I!) was in its own little jug, allowing me to add it as I wished. Honestly, this was an absolute pearler of a pudding.
From the moment we had stepped foot inside The Dovecote we’d felt like royalty, and it wasn’t just us that received the utmost care and attention; all the guests were treated the same. Each member of the team was incredible, but I have to shout- out ‘our’ Amelie above her peers; this wonderful young lady needs cloning! Thank you for being so marvellous. Clearly, Hot Wings are awarded to the award-winning Dovecote Restaurant at Morley Hayes – I think that hardly needs saying.
To book a table, call 01332 780480, or visit www.morleyhayes.com and hit the ‘bookings’ tab on the right-hand side of the page.
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