Nothing makes The Man and I happier than being asked to return to a venue; we like to think that it means that we had a positive impact, and that they trust us enough to ask us back when they have something new on offer. Sometimes, though, we visit a place that just resonates with us on a deeper level, and Hart’s Hotel and Kitchen in Nottingham is one of those special venues. One of the most remarkable things about Hart’s is that, in all the years we have been visiting, its air of refined calm has never changed; not one jot. Mind you, why change when you’ve crafted perfection?
Having parked the jalopy nearby, we strolled back to Hart’s Hotel and Kitchen, descending the steps that take you directly into the restaurant. You could travel literally anywhere in the country and not receive a warmer, more genuine welcome than the one we got; again, this is another signature touch from Hart’s. Every time we’ve stepped over the threshold, we’ve been made to feel like cherished friends rather than ‘guests’, so feeling instantly at ease is second-nature at Hart’s. We like to think that we know most of the team, but didn’t recognise the dapper young man who greeted us and, upon enquiring, were told that he has only being in the fold for a few months. Unforgivably, I forgot to ask his name…but he knows who he is, and so do we!
We had been invited along to sample the Summer Set Menu; available Monday-Friday Noon-2.30pm and 5.30pm-9.30pm, priced at £28pp for two courses or £34pp for all three courses. This is really great value, but for the trio of dishes is exceptionally good - especially when you factor in the quality and quantity of food…read on for more detail. However, before food was ordered, there was the small matter of what refreshment we fancied and, given the super selection of wines at Hart’s, this was a [pleasurable] task of its own. Eventually, we both plumped for a glass of a rather cheeky, young Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley.
Hart’s Hotel and Kitchen serve bread from their gastro relative, Hambleton Bakery in Exton, which is itself only a few miles from Hambleton Hall, Hart’s Michelin-starred sister site that Tim and Stefa Hart also own. Our lovely server offered us the choice of white- or wholemeal- Sourdough to nibble on – needless to say, it soon got slathered with the chilled butter that had been waiting patiently in its dish on the table. Nothing beats the taste or texture of freshly made Sourdough; it is one of those foodstuffs that sing to your soul, particularly when butter is lazily melting on its warm body.
Each course of the Summer Set Menu has two choices, so His Nibs and I decided to split the menu between us for simplicity. I have to say, despite its compact nature, the menu offered an incredible breadth of dishes; Chef Alistar is clearly a jolly clever chap! The starters are either chilled or room-temperature: The Man opted for the Chilled Pea and Mint Soup served with Hambleton Bakery Bread, and I had the Bruschetta.
Whilst waiting for our starters, I relaxed and reacquainted myself with the décor of the restaurant again. Stefa Hart is herself a renowned interior designer, and her skilled influence whispers throughout the space. A carefully curated palate of muted Greens and Blues are brought to life by a striking shade of Tomato adorning the plush sofa-type, multi-person banquette that hugs one rounded wall, and the free-standing chairs. Paler, patterned blinds dress the large windows, and there is a veritable rogue’s gallery of celebrities that have visited Hart’s Hotel and Kitchen in Nottingham over the decades. The polished wood tables are laid with thick, white cloth napkins, gleaming modern cutlery and glassware whose sparkle dazzles you. Sleek Salt and Pepper grinders, and tealights in holders complete the look.
Soon enough, two plates of almost-too-pretty-to-eat food were gently placed before us and we dove in with our customary enthusiasm. Close your eyes and imagine summer…this chilled soup is it. Garnished charmingly with purple-hued edible flowers and delicate pea shoots, this bowl could have jumped from a Monet pastel, it really could! Stunning looks aside, the soup tasted every bit as good as its visual; gloriously sweet notes from the peas were buoyed by the tenderest kiss of fragrant Mint. Beyond silky in texture, this summer soup had the palate in the palm of its hand, so to speak, ably assisted by more of that tremendously good Hambleton Bakery Sourdough.
Speaking of that tantalising bread, it took centre-stage in my Bruschetta. I had been expecting smaller slices of bread, rather than the whole slice of brown sourdough that I got – not that you’ll hear any complaint from me; the more of this superb bread, the better I say. The sourdough was [more than] generously topped with a plethora of Heritage Tomato varieties whose many colours would make a rainbow bow its head in defeated resignation! What sets heritage tomatoes apart from their mass-produced counterparts is the balance of sugars and acidity they contain in their flesh – honestly, their complexity provides a taste concerto on the palate when in cahoots with Roscoff Onion, Pancetta and Basil Gel! Chef had crisped the slices of Pancetta, providing a fantastic blast of texture alongside its intensely umami character. Brightness and lift came via the verdant Basil Gel, softened by the gentle sweetness of pale pink Roscoff slices. What a dish!!
Tagliata is a dish with its origins in Tuscany and, seeing as the weather was distinctly Mediterranean in feel (and The Man loving good quality Steak), it seemed the universe was sending massive hints to my man to order it. This particular dish relies on top quality beef cuts being used, and the Sirloin at Hart’s is more than up to the task of taking the limelight. Rested perfectly, the rose-pink centred, thinly sliced meat was melt-in-the-mouth tender and full of flavour. A thick bed of brightly peppery Rocket leaves and salty Capers added a wonderful contrast to the richness of the steak, balanced by the creamy texture of toasted Pine nuts and more succulent Heritage Tomatoes. Bringing its distinct pungency to the palate was a nice smattering of grated Parmesan that added a final bit of pizazz to this delicious meal.
My choice of main course also featured Capers and Parmesan, though they played differing roles in my dish. The Capers ozonic tang tipped its hat to the marine home of Coley fish, whose flesh had been butter-sautéed to give its outer a golden hue and crisp it slightly. Cutting through the golden gorgeousness, I was rewarded with firm, large flakes that came apart easily under my knife. Popping the fish into my mouth, I savoured the mild sweetness of the Coley, remarking that it wasn’t dissimilar to Cod or Haddock. This mild profile is exactly what made Coley an obvious choice to pair with the punchy Romesco sauce, who rich taste reflects its Catalan heritage. My palate savoured the bold tastes of Red Pepper, Tomato, Garlic and Spanish Smoked Paprika (Pimentón) within the sauce itself, as well as the aromatic confidence of Olives that were scattered throughout it. Originally, the pasta element was Tagliatelle (as described on the menu), but Chef Alistar had produced some intricately twisted Gemelli; this allowed the sauce to cling to them as well as the flat strands of Tagliatelle would have done, but just looked more interesting in the bowl. Most importantly of all, the Gemelli was cooked perfectly al-dente.
Dessert consisted of Hambleton Bakery Tart for me and Eton Mess for His Nibs and, as with the previous two courses, the presentation of these sweets was marvellous. The Eton Mess was an absolute beast, it really was! Served in a bowl rather than the usual glass, Chef Alistar had swirled chunky pieces of Strawberries and Cherries generously within the thickly whipped Cream and sweet, crunchy bits of Meringue. Experimenting with the ratios of this dessert, Chef has conjured up the perfect finale to any meal: less Meringue dampens that [sometimes] over-powering sweetness, allowing the sharp fruit to shine, and then the stiff Cream mellows this ardency whilst partnering the Meringue. A never-ending loop of gastro sublimity that isn’t overly heavy on the tummy either, though you may imagine this exuberantly summery dish would be.
Nestled on a buttery pastry base was a thin layer of impossibly delicious fruit compote and berries; proof that you don’t need heaps and heaps of an ingredient to make an impact. Raspberries, Blueberries and Blackcurrants all sat companiably together, their individual flavours swirling harmoniously over my taste buds. Providing a pleasant density was a wonderfully tasty Frangipane, and I loved how moist it was; actually, scratch that, the whole dessert was luscious in the mouth. Bravo, Chef.
We had wanted for nothing throughout the evening, thanks to the sterling efforts of our server. From the moment we arrived, to the minute we left, he had gone above-and-beyond to ensure our comfort and satisfaction. It wasn’t just to us that he extended such care; one of the hotel’s guests (a frequent visitor, I think) had popped down to the restaurant for a post-work drink and a genial conversation was soon struck up between them until the gentleman left for his room. As always (for us), it was a bit of a wrench to leave Hart’s Hotel and Kitchen; it’s one of those places that weaves its spell around you and gives your soul a hug. Until next time, Hart’s. Hot Wings unreservedly given to this delightful Nottingham venue.
To book a table, call 0115 988 1900, or visit www.hartsnottingham.co.uk and hit the ‘book a table’ button to reserve your seat. The Summer Set Menu is available until 31st August 2026, so don’t miss out!
