As self-confessed foodies, when the opportunity to stay at a hotel that boasts an in-house 2AA-Rosetted restaurant, you can bet your bottom dollar that we were snagging ourselves a table for dinner! The Congresbury Arms is a stunning venue, packed with quintessentially English charm within its Grade II-listed walls and, when you walk into the restaurant, you immediately step upon dark flagstones that have that gorgeous well-worn look to them.
We were shown over to our table in one of the cosy sections, the focal point of which was the huge stone fireplace. There’s a perception that Rosetted places can be a bit ‘stuffy’ not The Congresbury Arms! Huge prints of David Bowie in his Aladdin Sane era and a fantastically subversive one of an ‘Aladdin’d’ Queen Elizabeth II were mounted prominently on the walls, clearly seen from all angles in the space. Very cleverly, this modernity was tempered by more traditional elements such as the pastel green Banquette and tonal checked fabric on the high-back chairs that were paired with the solid wood tables. Small arrangements of fresh flowers and good quality single-use napkins were set on the table, partnered with gleaming cutlery and glassware.
Alongside its seasonally changing main a la carte menu, The Congresbury Arms offers a ‘lighter dining’ set menu which is also available at lunchtime as well as in the evening. This set menu is priced at £20pp for two courses, or three courses for £25pp. Comprised of four choices per course, each one has representatives from the a la carte offering within it.
For starters we chose the Greek Salad and Feta Cheese, and Caramelised Red Onion and Brie Tartlets, served with Mixed Leaves, followed by Pork Belly and Cider-battered Fish and Chips (His Nibs’ first choice had been the Chicken and Bacon Pie, but this was still cooking!). Table water had been offered upon our arrival and I had a glass of Shiraz and The Man had a pint of Estrella, so we sat, sipped and yapped (say that quickly!) as we awaited our first course.
It wasn’t long before one of the team was presenting us with our starters and we dug in enthusiastically. I was happy to discover a multitude of Green Olives amongst the julienned Cucumber and halves of sweet Cherry Tomatoes, and my palate certainly appreciated the gentle (though unmistakeable) ping of heat from Chilli in there, too. I’m not sure how authentic it is to have Radish in a traditional Greek Salad, and I’m not sure whether I’m ‘all in’ about its inclusion in modern versions. Undoubtedly, it adds crunch but then fresh salad veggies are already crunchy, no? Whatever, its peppery character was complemented by creamy-yet-tangy Feta Cheese, whose salty tang balanced the Tomato nicely.
The Man Bird was very happy with his pair of miniature, puff pastry Tartlets that were served warm, and rightly so. These beauties were a marvellous balance of sweet Onion and creamy, nutty Brie, partnered by the buttery silkiness of the pastry that melted in the mouth. A salad of mixed leaves, cucumber, radish, and spring onion had all been subtly drizzled with Balsamic for a delightfully intense pop of flavour. This really was a perfect starter dish for a spring menu.
Our server had come to do check backs and was happy to be taking a pair of cleared plates back to the kitchen: there’s no better endorsement than that really, is there? After a quick check that we were still ok for drinks, we were left to digest our starters and await the main event, so to speak, and it wasn’t an overly long wait.
Usually, it’s His Nibs that will opt for Pork Belly whenever it’s on a menu, but on this occasion I really fancied it, so I called dibs! Chef had rolled the meat so that the skin was outermost, resulting in the most irresistibly crunchy crackling known to man; needless to say, that was where I started my meal. Perfectly seasoned and roasted, the skin was rich-tasting and crisp to the bite, contrasting with the creamy, tender meat on the inside. The fat had done a sterling job of preserving the delicate flesh during cooking, protecting it against becoming dry, and I was savouring every single bite of the juicy Pork, let me tell you. Broccoli and Green Beans were both nicely firm to the bite, contrasted by pillowy soft, roasted root vegetables; the variety of flavours, ranging from bright and grassy to sweet and comforting was not lost on my palate, either. The square of Dauphinoise Potato was comfort food at its finest; silky with the cream that had softened them during cooking, and a whisper of garlic to lift it in the mouth. My only criticism would be that there was way too much gravy on the plate; a swirl for presentation and the rest in a separate jug would’ve been much better, I felt.
Opposite me, His Nibs was answering the challenge of ‘who has got the loudest crunching dish’ call-to-arms! Honestly, the batter on his fish was ridiculously crisp…and possibly the best batter in the universe. Beyond crunchy, and with no trace or taste of grease to sully its cider-pimped marvellousness, it paired superbly with the sweet, moist fish whose delightfully meaty texture flaked, rather than fell apart, when cut into. The chunky Chips were equally glorious: thick, golden slices of spud that were that tantalising balance of crisp and soft. A nicely piquant Tartare sauce was housed in its own pot, as were the ‘real McCoy’ Mushy Peas i.e. soaked ones, as opposed to out of a tin. Not being artificially sweetened, the Marrowfat’s nuttiness is allowed to permeate the thick, creamy (and crucially, sludge green coloured, not bright green) and flood the palate, reminiscent of the very tasty ones that Granny used to make. Putting down his cutlery, His Nibs said that he was actually rather glad that the Chicken and Bacon Pie hadn’t been ready – sometimes things are just meant to be.
Our final courses were Apple Crumble with Custard (my choice) and Sticky Toffee Pudding with Salted Caramel Ice Cream for The Man. Chunks of unsweetened apple were still gently crunchy and tart, providing a marvellous back-drop for the velvety, buttery crumble to shine against. I loved the texture of the crumble, something akin to coarsely broken up shortbread, and it was just sweet enough to enhance the fruit without being ‘too much’. Being frank, I could take-or-leave the Custard; there was nothing to actively dislike, but there was nothing to recommend it’s bland, non-descript flavour, either.
Sticky Toffee Pudding is one of those sweet treats that simply has to be served in a sizeable wedge: anything else is a crime against this iconic pud! Thankfully, Chef at The Congresbury Arms is in this camp, and His Nibs sighed happily when he clapped eyes on the dramatically dark square of it. Tremendously rich in flavour and satisfyingly dense in texture (without being stodgy), this was a total star in the pudding world. Where I’d moaned about the amount of gravy on my main course, Chef’s liberal hand with the Toffee sauce was reaping dividends from His Nibs, who could’ve eaten a lake of the stuff! Mind you, I have to say that it was jolly fine. A sphere of top-quality Salted Caramel Ice Cream was an excellent addition here, adding a contrast of temperature and a silkier, lighter taste in the mouth.
Throughout the evening, the service had been spot-on: friendly, efficient and unobtrusive. As we sat back, finishing our drinks, we concluded that this was a lovely way to end our first day at The Congresbury Arms Hotel and Restaurant. Hot Wings given to this restaurant; when we revisit, we will certainly dine here again. To book a table, call 01934 782283 or visit www.congresbury arms.co.uk and hit the ‘book a table’ button.
