Out For Dinner At Anoki Indian Restaurant In Derby
Published On Friday 8 Aug 2025 by Sticky Beak
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It’s always nice to know that you’ve done something right, and The Man and I figured that this must be the case as we were invited to review Anoki in Derby after recently visiting its Burton restaurant. Behind sleek, glass, logo-etched doors lay a set of polished stairs that led up to possibly the most beautiful setting for an Indian Restaurant you could imagine! As well as the stairs, what grabbed my attention was the chiller cabinet laden with a superb selection of ‘Anoki at Home’ ready-prepped meals – perfect for delicious cook-at-home morsels to serve to guests or family if you can’t be faffed to cook yourself or are short on time.
At the top of the stairs, we were greeted warmly and shown over to our table; I was gawping around like a kid in wonderland at the sheer beauty of Anoki, in what was historically a Picturehouse in the 1920s. The impossibly high, domed ceilings were in a shade somewhere between Tiffany- and Delft- Blue that was punctuated with gilded cornicing, and chandeliers provided the central lighting. At the periphery of the restaurant were multiple columns topped with busts of the female form, and each of these housed small, inset lights that provided a subtler glow around the space. Coming soon to Anoki will be 10,000 (yes, you read that right, 10K!) tiny lights set into the ceiling; apparently this will be the largest light installation in the UK - all I know is that it will be as if you’re dining under the stars, which I think is utterly fabulous.
Paying homage to its former use, Bollywood dance sketches were projected onto the archway at one end, cleverly reflected [for diners facing the other way] in a large mirror at the opposite end. The rounded shape of the ceiling was echoed by the soft shape of the tapered scroll-backs of the high-back chairs, upholstered in deep, plush fabric for comfort. On the bottom half of the walls (and on the panelling) the paint was in shades of chocolate, ranging from Milk to Mocha, which kept the ambience cosy and relaxed, as well as complementing the blue tones of the ceiling. Adding visual interest was the faux-mosaic wallpaper with its bold Jacobean floral design and, as a final touch, there was pianist playing live music. Anoki Derby is undoubtedly date-night dining, but it was lovely to see children dining with their families, too; no need to panic if your sitter cancels on you last-minute – just bring the bambinos along with you!
Having seated us and placed the cloth napkins in our laps, our server offered water for the table immediately and left us to decide on which drinks we’d like as he went to fetch a bottle. When he returned (and had poured our first glass of water for us) we ordered a glass of Shiraz for me and a bottle of Cobra lager for His Nibs, and at the same time, another member of the Anoki team brought over a bowl of Poppadoms and Pickle Tray for us to nibble on whilst we perused the extensive food menu. Each Poppadom was crisp and crunchy, with no greasiness at all, and the Pickle Tray comprised Onion Salad, Tamarind Chutney, Green Chutney and Mango Chutney, so all the taste bases were covered.
I fancied the Tandoori King Prawns as my starter (£11.95) and carried on the marine theme by choosing the Machalli Ka Salan (Curry Leaf Cod, £26.95) for my main. The Man Bird originally ordered the Hot Chilli Fish (£10.95), but was persuaded by the sound of the Mixed Platter - not on the menu – a mouth-watering mix of Hot Chilli Fish, Chicken Tikka, Garlic Chicken, Lamb Chop, and Onion Bhaji. The kitchen at Anoki Derby isn’t an open one, so we couldn’t revel in the sights, sounds and smells, but we certainly filled our sensorial boots when the dishes were placed in front of us!
My starter’s quartet of butterflied King Prawns looked gorgeous, nestled next to a cool, crisp side salad, fresh Lemon wedge and rolls of julienned Cucumber. For an extra injection of flair, a sprig of fresh Rosemary perched the length of the arrangement. Cooking in the Tandoor had imparted flashes of char onto the pale flesh of the seafood, and I loved the contrast of the sweet Prawns and the smoky depth of the scorch. For a dish of few elements, this certainly delivered on the taste front, no mistake.
Much as it pains me to say, there was no disputing that His Nibs’ mixed platter took the award for most impressive starter. One thing’s for sure: you certainly get a lot of meat with this! The chicken breast portions of both the Tikka and Garlic Chilli Chicken were sizeable (and both were tender and juicy), and the Lamb Chop meat fell away from the bone at the merest pressure from the knife. Rather than being spherical, the Onion Bhaji was flattened into more of a patty-style, and the vegetable was just-firm to the bite and had been zhuzhed with a flavoursome spice mix that got the taste buds dancing. You may remember me mentioning the Hot Chilli Fish? Well, trust me, if you ever get to savour this treat, you will forever remember it! The Cod Loin was tantalisingly sweet, contrasting boldly with the fiery, sticky sauce/glaze, and the flavours exploded in His Nibs’ mouth. Big girl pants are needed for the spice level, but it’s definitely worth it.
We’d arrived fairly early for dinner (6.30pm), but there were still a few other tables occupied when we’d arrived; however, as the evening drew on, more and more folks began to take their seats at tables around the room. It was lovely to see a vibrant variety of diners: families (with and without children), groups of friends, and couples, all of whom were soon tucking into tasty morsels.
Having cleared our starter plates away, our lovely server returned shortly after with Passionfruit- and Raspberry- Sorbets, arranged yin/yang fashion on small spoons with a micro-mint garnish, to cleanse our palates. This was a beautiful service touch, and one that was delivered with dead-pan humour that it was really our mains in miniaturised form! Clean, bright fruit notes worked their magic and we were ready to tackle our second course.
All I can say about my Curry Leaf Cod is “Wow!”. I loved everything about this curry: the Cod was firm, sweet and juicy, the sauce marvellously complex with a surprising (but not overpowering) heat, and the presentation was beautiful. I’ve had many delicious curries in my life, but not many that I would return to time and again; this one I would, though. Carefully layered and exquisitely balanced, Chef had done an absolutely tremendous job here.
The Man Bird had chosen to have white [chicken] breast meat, rather than dark thigh meat in his curry, though both would work equally well I feel. Ginger brought a breeze of warmth on the palate, buoyed by Garlic and several other aromatics, resulting in a remarkably rich, multi-faceted meal. Labelled as a firm favourite of the Anoki team in its menu description, it’s easy to see why it holds this position. We both remarked on the distinct differences in the flavours of our respective curries, saying that it’s always nice to have discernibly different dishes on the table.
To go with our curries, we’d selected some classic Pilau Rice (£4.75), Garlic Naan (£4.50), and a mystery Vegetable side of Chef’s choosing, which turned out to be a spiced medley of Peas, Chickpeas, Cauliflower, Onion, Peppers and Okra. Each side was housed in a decorative metal bowl, and there was plenty to tuck into; as with the Burton restaurant, the team had cut the Naan into quarters for our ease.
Softer than velvet, the bread was lightly glossed with butter for an attractive sheen and had Garlic at the perfect level to taste without being vampire-repelling! All the vegetables were still gently firm to the bite and the rice grains separated and fluffy; it may seem trivial, but I guarantee that the sides can make-or-break an Indian meal – I’m very happy, therefore, to report that the sundries are treated with as much reverence as the mains.
As another little treat for us, we were presented with a sweet of Gulab Jamun and Vanilla Ice cream, accompanied by a handled basket made from an Orange and containing segmented pieces of the citrus fruit. Both of us adore Gulab Jamun, and this particular morsel was excellent: squidgy and sweet, but not formlessly soggy. Our palates were swerving violently between the tang of fruit and the sweetness of the milk powder and butter’s richness, almost comically as if we were watching a tennis match!
From start to finish, this had been a quite marvellous evening; certainly, deserving of the DeLorean treatment. Check-backs had been done at each course and nothing had been too much trouble. Conversation and humour had been at the perfect professional level, glasses refreshed when needed and plates cleared in a timely way but not rushed; 5-star service, absolutely.
I would have no hesitation in recommending Anoki Derby to friends and/or family, whether local or from out-of-town, so Hot Wings unreservedly given here. To experience Anoki fine-dining for yourself at Derby, ring 01332 292888: the restaurant is closed Sunday and Monday, but opens Tues-Sat Noon-10.30pm. If you prefer to dine at home, takeaways are available 7-days-a-week 5.30-11pm. You can also visit www.anoki.co.uk and choose the location you want to visit, then scroll down to the ‘ResDiary’ button and pick your date and time.
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